Made in USA ?

 

The theory behind the diodes is to prevent feedback voltage from the battery in the charging system. Voltage should only be allowed to flow to the battery from the regulator and not from the battery to the regulator.

To test the diodes you need a multimeter with a diode function. Remove battery for theses tests. Switch to the diode function on your multimeter. Place the positive lead of your multimeter on one of the terminals in the connector that comes off the regulator and plugs into the stator. Place negative lead on the + battery wire. The meter should read voltage. Reverse the meter leads on the wires and you should not read voltage.

 

Thanks for the tip. I was well aware of the dry chemical fire extinguisher being corrosive to electrical components. I didn't have much else available at the time to prevent a complete fire from engulfing the whole bike. I cleaned all of the chemicals off in just the fashion you explained.

 

Ordered a regulator (HD part) and it should be here Monday. Going to fight the fight to get the battery replaced by the local store but will probably being buying a new battery soon. I'm having withdrawals from not riding, so I hope to have her up and running again soon.

 

I'm guessing your asking about the battery and TBH I'm not sure where they are made. It's an Autocraft Li-on and I've been told they are manufactured by Johnson Controls. However I'm not certain where JC's Li-on batteries are manufactured.

 

It will say on it where it was made.

 

That battery is made in China and if I'm not mistaken has only a thirty or ninety day warranty.

The sticker says made in china on front right of battery in the Advance Auto picture of it. Advance Auto used to carry USA made darn good motorcycle batteries but no longer do.

 

++++ On Battery Mart and Big Crank Batteries.

However, I must report that my last MoCo battery lasted 7.5 years. Actually it's still in so-so condition, just 'sounded' a bit tired cranking the EVO when the temp was 40 degrees or below. So I replaced it last fall with a Big Crank.

One of the problems I was having with batteries, was traced to the connection where the regulator plugs into the stator. An intermittent connection will cause battery issues. Before 'hacking' a fix, I was running batteries on borrowed time after two years use.

 

Most guys are satisfied grounding the regulator and rectifier at the frame where the R and R is mounted and that is ok for some.The better way is to run a 12 gauge wire from r+r grounding screw terminal to the neg terminal at the battery for reliable performance using a bit of silicon grease at the connections to prevent corrosion.

 

Sorry guys for the long gap in responding and the long posts. I got the regulator in and installed it. Unfortunately it appears I have more problems on my hands. Hooked up the battery after checking all my connections and it seems at least the TSM is fried.

It started sizzling as soon as I turned the ignition switch on. I'm pretty sure the overvoltage spike from the failing regulator smoked the TSM as well as popping all the bulbs. I'm going back through and checking all electrical components.

So far it seems limited to the TSM. Pulled all the bulbs in the bike to prevent reading false grounds/shorts and went through every wire and connector in the harness. Shook the harness while testing to ground and continuity between wires. Found nothing grounded or shorted.

Ordered a badlands module to replace the TSM and moving on to getting the ol girl back on the road. I'll test her today without the TSM and see if I can get good results from the rest of the bike. At the very least this experience is informative and allowing me to make some upgrades along the way 😂