Charging problems
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Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Japan
Thanks everyone! I will finish testing the stator tonight and get this charging problem solved first. As far as the starter goes, I have to order a relay and parts as we don't have parts stores here in Japan. If something breaks, they take it to a shop or discard if it is more than 10 years old and buy a new one.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Haslet Texas
Thanks everyone! I will finish testing the stator tonight and get this charging problem solved first. As far as the starter goes, I have to order a relay and parts as we don't have parts stores here in Japan. If something breaks, they take it to a shop or discard if it is more than 10 years old and buy a new one.
You might not need anything else.
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From: Japan
Last night I tested the stator and the results were 14.2~14.4 @2500 RPM. I've also attached a picture of the rotor, stator and voltage regulator, if anyone can help identify it and/or would you use it.
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From: Brighton, MI
Looks like a V-twin brand or accell.
The rotor in the pic is a sealed/enclosed magnet type...that is good! Don't be afraid to use it if you every have to pull the primary cover. The factory rotor magnets are not enclosed and have had an occasional history of one of those magnets letting loose. However, no need to change unless your in there or your stator proves bad...
Was the stator test AC or DC volts? Was that checked at the stator plug? What was the AC voltage at 1000 rpms? Stator checks are done with your meter set to AC. And at 2000?
What is the DC voltage at the battery terminals with the engine running at say 1000 rpms? I agree, a relay is cheap and easy to swap out. No parts stores in Japan?! Hell, I can send you a relay! By the way, it is "Made in Japan". Good luck. YD
The rotor in the pic is a sealed/enclosed magnet type...that is good! Don't be afraid to use it if you every have to pull the primary cover. The factory rotor magnets are not enclosed and have had an occasional history of one of those magnets letting loose. However, no need to change unless your in there or your stator proves bad...
Was the stator test AC or DC volts? Was that checked at the stator plug? What was the AC voltage at 1000 rpms? Stator checks are done with your meter set to AC. And at 2000?
What is the DC voltage at the battery terminals with the engine running at say 1000 rpms? I agree, a relay is cheap and easy to swap out. No parts stores in Japan?! Hell, I can send you a relay! By the way, it is "Made in Japan". Good luck. YD
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Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Japan
The DC voltage at the battery at 1000 rpm was 11.9. I am certain that I had it set to AC volts. 1000 rpm 6.9 and 2500 rpm 14.9. I am going to pick up a new volt meter tonight as the led on my old one has some black spots on the screen. I am pretty certain it is accurate as the battery read 12.3 after I had left the lights on for a while.
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From: Brighton, MI
OK, so 6.9 volts AC at the stator plug disconnected right? And 14.9 AC at 2500 rpms at the stator plug disconnected?
Starting to sound like the stator if those are your readings at the stator plug with it disconnected from the regulator. Check the ohms resistance at the stator leads (connector). YD
Starting to sound like the stator if those are your readings at the stator plug with it disconnected from the regulator. Check the ohms resistance at the stator leads (connector). YD
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From: Japan
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From: NW AR
The resistance of the stator is a tough test to use. If it's open, that's one thing. Anything other than that is difficult to judge, as ohm meters are not that accurate at that range, except for expensive ones.
Now, your 15V at 2000 RPM and 7V at 1000 RPM is kinda looking like either a bad stator or rotor. If I was in your position, I would replace both, unless I pulled the stator and obviously found a problem, like a burnt winding, in which case I would only replace the stator.
Now, your 15V at 2000 RPM and 7V at 1000 RPM is kinda looking like either a bad stator or rotor. If I was in your position, I would replace both, unless I pulled the stator and obviously found a problem, like a burnt winding, in which case I would only replace the stator.
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From: Brighton, MI
Looks like stator is bad...
Ohms at the two terminals should be 0.1 to 0.2.
Your AC voltage should be about 16 to 20 volts AC per 1000 rpms.
You could also check ohms to one of the stator socket terminals and a good ground, it should read infinite, but your other tests indicate the stator is highly suspect.
Looks like your pulling the primary. I would compare the old stator with the one you have. I bet it is compatible. Given your situation and difficulty getting parts, I would use the replacement stator that you have as long as it looks the same as the one you remove.
Does the new stator have new bolts with it? YD
Ohms at the two terminals should be 0.1 to 0.2.
Your AC voltage should be about 16 to 20 volts AC per 1000 rpms.
You could also check ohms to one of the stator socket terminals and a good ground, it should read infinite, but your other tests indicate the stator is highly suspect.
Looks like your pulling the primary. I would compare the old stator with the one you have. I bet it is compatible. Given your situation and difficulty getting parts, I would use the replacement stator that you have as long as it looks the same as the one you remove.
Does the new stator have new bolts with it? YD