It has new bolts, wire ties etc. I will replace everything this weekend. Hopefully, this will cure all of my problems. I would like to get a little more riding time in before winter. I'll update when I'm finished. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

Stator bolts and the threads in the block need to be oil free, clean, and dry. Loctite on the threads. Same for the stator wire screws. They are screw thread NOT machine thread, and need to be clean and dry and the threads sealed with Loctite or you could get crankcase oil leaking over to the primary side.

The hard rubber stator connector can be tricky to feed completely into the hole. Regular engine oil may not be slick enough to feed it through easily. If you can find castor oil (laxative at a drug store) it works great. For some reason, better than just motor oil.

Use your new sealed rotor, but check primary chain alignment with a straight edge and tape measure (or similar) before and after. You want to make sure your primary chain alignment is straight (clutch sprocket and compensator sprocket in a straight line).

Also tension your primary chain before you put the primary cover back on. It is easier with the cover off. Red Loctite on compensator bolt and clutch nut. Use sparingly.

Clutch nut is reverse thread...see this thread:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...es-please.html

 

A 1/4" extension will help you push the plug through without damaging it.

 

Got it apart this morning and found that my compensator nut was loose. I turned it 5 or 6 times with my hand and it came right off. Everything inside looks clean--no loose magnets or anything. I would imagine this could be part of the problem??? Do I change everything out or bolt it back together and see what happens

 

If the comp was that loose, you might have sheared the teeth off the rotor. That'll make it free wheel and charge poorly. I'd check the teeth on the shaft and put all the new stuff in. Torque to spec (160 I think, but check the manual). Clean threads with thread locker (red I think..... check manual again).

I hate doing stuff twice.

 

Personally I would bolt it back up to see what happens.
With the compensator that loose the possibility exists that the magnets of the rotor weren't going around the windings like they should have been.

 

Could be. I'd try putting it back together if nothing is sheared and see what happens. Cost you nothing but time.

 

" if nothing is sheared"

That's the REAL important part. Ck the shaft closely

It's a little hard to imagine the rotor teeth aren't damaged.

WP

 

Very important. If you torque the compensator & the rotor splines are stripped & the hole is oblonged, the rotor will hit the stator & cause bad things to happen.

 

You may not agree with my method but I think everyone will agree on the outcome. I took everything apart and re-inspected and saw that a magnet was missing on the rotor. I spent 3 hours carefully trying to get the stator plug through the block before it tore. I knew that the old stator was not grounded and was producing some volts. So as not to be defeated I reinstalled it, added the new rotor buttoned it up. Everything tested to specs. I just returned from a ride down the coast in this 70 degree weather. Thanks to everyone!