Evo rebuild underway...
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 2,504
Likes: 150
From: ct
If it were mine, (I'm a curious person) I would use a small brush with friendly mineral spirits and clean all around it and wipe it down good and dry with a shop rag. And keep an eye on it after every ride just to see what comes back and how fast. Then I would go from there, always warm an evo before you take off also.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
If it's bothering you, a top end Cometic kit is only $80.00 to repair it. You don't have to take the pistons out of the jugs to do it either. Get yourself a FSM and have at it. You'll actually enjoy it the first time. If the motor is all stock, setting the lifter preload is not an issue just make sure you put the stock rods back in their proper place. I would do it..... Just get the .030" head gasket kit. It'll bump the comp a tad.....
Dig In Man....
Just thought of one more thing. At one point the MOCO stated lifter replacement service was 25k so maybe you might want to do those while it's apart.....
Good luck man...
Dig In Man....
Just thought of one more thing. At one point the MOCO stated lifter replacement service was 25k so maybe you might want to do those while it's apart.....
Good luck man...
Tourer
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 442
Likes: 30
From: Florida
If it were mine, (I'm a curious person) I would use a small brush with friendly mineral spirits and clean all around it and wipe it down good and dry with a shop rag. And keep an eye on it after every ride just to see what comes back and how fast. Then I would go from there, always warm an evo before you take off also.
My warm up procedure is to run it with the choke on until it will run without stalling without the choke (usually about a minute if cold). Then let it run without the choke for a minute.
I kind of like the idea of doing some work on the bike, but feel like I should start a bit smaller than this. I suspect that if I got into this, it might take a while due to my limited wrenching skills.
Thinking maybe wait a year. Next summer when it is hot in Florida and not great for riding might be a good time. That way I can monitor it, try a few smaller projects.
Thanks for the comments.
Any guidelines on shift points. Generally, I take it pretty easy. I go to second at 20 mph, third at 30 mph, fourth at 40 mph and fifth at 50 mph. Winding it out is about another 10 mph for each shift point. I suspect I have much more room to wind it out, but I do not yet have a good feel for the motor.
Any thoughts?
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,673
Likes: 606
From:
i let my 85 warm up for 4-5 minutes when it's first started in the morning. i had a head gasket replaced when it was very new from not warming enough... i haven't had head or base gasket problems since i had it replaced.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,091
Likes: 7,612
From: Poolville
I think I will start with this. I am a curious person too. The bike runs well. My mechanic says it has good power. I do not have a basis for comparison for power, but it seems to run very well to me. Starts well, runs smoothly, idles well.
My warm up procedure is to run it with the choke on until it will run without stalling without the choke (usually about a minute if cold). Then let it run without the choke for a minute.
I kind of like the idea of doing some work on the bike, but feel like I should start a bit smaller than this. I suspect that if I got into this, it might take a while due to my limited wrenching skills.
Thinking maybe wait a year. Next summer when it is hot in Florida and not great for riding might be a good time. That way I can monitor it, try a few smaller projects.
Thanks for the comments.
Any guidelines on shift points. Generally, I take it pretty easy. I go to second at 20 mph, third at 30 mph, fourth at 40 mph and fifth at 50 mph. Winding it out is about another 10 mph for each shift point. I suspect I have much more room to wind it out, but I do not yet have a good feel for the motor.
Any thoughts?
My warm up procedure is to run it with the choke on until it will run without stalling without the choke (usually about a minute if cold). Then let it run without the choke for a minute.
I kind of like the idea of doing some work on the bike, but feel like I should start a bit smaller than this. I suspect that if I got into this, it might take a while due to my limited wrenching skills.
Thinking maybe wait a year. Next summer when it is hot in Florida and not great for riding might be a good time. That way I can monitor it, try a few smaller projects.
Thanks for the comments.
Any guidelines on shift points. Generally, I take it pretty easy. I go to second at 20 mph, third at 30 mph, fourth at 40 mph and fifth at 50 mph. Winding it out is about another 10 mph for each shift point. I suspect I have much more room to wind it out, but I do not yet have a good feel for the motor.
Any thoughts?
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 2,504
Likes: 150
From: ct
So I thought I might add an update to my thread... I decided to do something that I wish I did during my rebuild... I just purchased s&s rockers (not the roller) and a set of s&s shafts ,these will be installed when winter gets going along with rocker lockers that I got from hotrod Bob.
The tolerance was near the minimum but within range so I let it slide to keep costs down, but it has gotten loud. The new heavy valve spring has probably increased the wear.
If this doesn't solve the noisy top end then I move on to John's theory that the screaming eagle lifters can't handle the valve spring so s&s lifters would be next on the list.
And when I do this I'm going to measure the stock push rods and compare the length of each to my adjustable rods at the present setting, just for **** and giggles..
The tolerance was near the minimum but within range so I let it slide to keep costs down, but it has gotten loud. The new heavy valve spring has probably increased the wear.
If this doesn't solve the noisy top end then I move on to John's theory that the screaming eagle lifters can't handle the valve spring so s&s lifters would be next on the list.
And when I do this I'm going to measure the stock push rods and compare the length of each to my adjustable rods at the present setting, just for **** and giggles..
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 103
From: Ghent NY
Gliden, I don't know how far along you are but i have the stock cam and lifters from my 98 if you want them. they are in perfect cond. Had 11 K when i took them out. If you can use them I'll send em your way
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Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 2,504
Likes: 150
From: ct
Thanks bud, it's all new, except for what I'm about to do,just a little noisier than what I'm willing to except,, it's listed in my signature.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,091
Likes: 7,612
From: Poolville
Hey Kevin, There's a guy over in the Engine Mechanical that's running SE lifters and had developed more noise than he liked in a very short period of time, so he took some advise and installed the S&S and is very happy..... His is a TC but Who's knows if that really makes a difference.... Wghussey is his name. Good luck man....