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having had the opportunity to build a couple of hot rods in my life time and as was said S&S carbs were and still are designed for WOT driving - when the engines working surpass the norm in cam duration and compression as well as port sizing and even valve location angles not to forget the lightning of components like flywheels ect ect - the dynamics of the intake and exhaust track tuning comes into play, in all out racing its the end goal that is on the table not street drivability
having said that we tune to the speed of torque, and by that only do things that make it turn up faster not how much power it ends up making ( its how fast it gets to the red line ) -
we have tryed all the carbs and the FRC 42 for me is the cats *** but they are an easy 800 each with nothing Mikuni 42 is about as good as you can buy with out going into exotic carbs like the FRC and others
having had the opportunity to build a couple of hot rods in my life time and as was said S&S carbs were and still are designed for WOT driving.
Far be it for me to argue, but I have probably never tested my G to WOT. It does pull like a freight train from around 1,500 rpm in top gear, 2-up, so carburetion through the lower rev range seems remarkably good to me!
On the 89" ran a modded CV that ran well, a Mikuni 45 that ran well but the Mikuni had a slight edge in performance, nothing extreme and not $400 better than a modded CV but we tend to spend money for a couple more ponies.
You are starting to burn brain cells trying to split velocity and flow for performance. Lazy air is just going to be lazy, fast air is responsive but is it restrictive at WOT? The only way is trial and error and a dyno to measure the changes as I bet John has aged in dog years finding a formula for smooth power.
Ok, it is Christmas and the Evo section takes care of each other, PM me a phone number and pay shipping I'll send you a Miki 45 with a jet kit on a S&S intake for testing. Take care of it and send it back is all I ask.
Ok, it is Christmas and the Evo section takes care of each other, PM me a phone number and pay shipping I'll send you a Miki 45 with a jet kit on a S&S intake for testing. Take care of it and send it back is all I ask.
Sounds like a great deal to me, if wanting to gain knowledge.
Never modified a S&S, but a modified 40mm Cv to 41.5 is a good carb , with stock stroke & .02 overbore & other stuff. One question I ask my self is, would the carb have run as good, un-modified. Don't know as I didnt have carb before it was bored to do a dyno run.
Good luck with your quest !
On the 89" ran a modded CV that ran well, a Mikuni 45 that ran well but the Mikuni had a slight edge in performance, nothing extreme and not $400 better than a modded CV but we tend to spend money for a couple more ponies.
You are starting to burn brain cells trying to split velocity and flow for performance. Lazy air is just going to be lazy, fast air is responsive but is it restrictive at WOT? The only way is trial and error and a dyno to measure the changes as I bet John has aged in dog years finding a formula for smooth power.
Ok, it is Christmas and the Evo section takes care of each other, PM me a phone number and pay shipping I'll send you a Miki 45 with a jet kit on a S&S intake for testing. Take care of it and send it back is all I ask.
when we were road racing buels i was searching for the magic and by coincidence i found a great way to determine low port air speed verses hi port air speed as it related to a real time racing environment - we knew when we ported the heads, the porting station would only tell you the total CFM of air that is passing through the port and using the latest and greatest math numbers cant tell you if the location of the ports finessing as it relates to the movement of air is actually in the right place in the port -- porting machine blows the air through the head ports // the engine in WOT is sucking air through / so you have apples and oranges - sure its the way its done forever does that end it, thats the deal take it or leave it - nope
so i with some help from some odd people found a red dye and added it to the fuel ( ELF 122 OCT ) - the dye as it turned out would and did leave light stains and dark stains in the ports at the end of a race weekend - so we removed the heads every race and re did the ports in the dark stain areas as that to me showed the air speed had slowed and caused it to puddle in the port while in a racing environment, what happened on the dyno was speed of torque started to get faster / and then the wining started from the rider at every race its faster and now i have to re learn what to do in each and every corner < me i could care less he is riding it - as it turned out for me that is the only way to tune a machine in that environment, live not using a bench top blower so i sold ours and never looked back - many many other things happened to make it all happen that was just one of them
We have used modified S&S G carbs on 1200cc XL's with great sucsess.
Zippys used G's with dual Thunderjets with their 1200cc XL Super-Hammer kits.
Many factors depend on what/where/when and why.
Scott
I can imagine for fuel atomization that add on venture is the cats ***. Realistically did it make a difference that you could feel? Where were you able tho find such a piece? Are both the main jet and T-jet emulsion tubes connected to the venturi?
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Dec 23, 2015 at 09:42 PM.
I can imagine for fuel atomization that add on venture is the cats ***. Realistically did it make a difference that you could feel? Where were you able tho find such a piece? Are both the main jet and T-jet emulsion tubes connected to the venturi?
I can't remember where I found it but I tried one like that and didn't notice any difference.
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