Compensator woes
Sorry for being thick BUT:
I've put together the primary drive for a testfitting.
First I've fitted the shim, then the two part sprocketassembly and on top of that the compensator.
Now when I turn the sprocket by hand it slides outwards as it should but the compensator can still turn freely?
Is that correct? Will it only grip when there's proper force applied as in: the engine turning over?
Bit confused me...
I've put together the primary drive for a testfitting.
First I've fitted the shim, then the two part sprocketassembly and on top of that the compensator.
Now when I turn the sprocket by hand it slides outwards as it should but the compensator can still turn freely?
Is that correct? Will it only grip when there's proper force applied as in: the engine turning over?
Bit confused me...
Take a look at this website and go to the 'belts, chains etc' page for your bike. Your sprocket should rotate freely on the shaft extension (before final assembly) and then be engaged by the sliding cam, which is locked to the crankshaft. Once the cover assembly is installed and the sleeve nut tightened, I wouldn't expect that anything will move if you try to twist it by hand.
Ah mr. Brown! What would I do without your kind help! 
My assembly is correct per the site you mentioned BUT when I 'actuate' the sliding cam, it picks up the sprocket (as it should) untill it obviously blocks because I can't turn the crank by hand.
However, at that point I can still move the compensatorcover freely...
So I'm wondering if the actual force of the crank will push the cam outwards even more so that it will push against the cover and hence pick it up OR that something is amiss....?
My assembly is correct per the site you mentioned BUT when I 'actuate' the sliding cam, it picks up the sprocket (as it should) untill it obviously blocks because I can't turn the crank by hand.
However, at that point I can still move the compensatorcover freely...
So I'm wondering if the actual force of the crank will push the cam outwards even more so that it will push against the cover and hence pick it up OR that something is amiss....?
Ah mr. Brown! What would I do without your kind help! 
My assembly is correct per the site you mentioned BUT when I 'actuate' the sliding cam, it picks up the sprocket (as it should) untill it obviously blocks because I can't turn the crank by hand.
However, at that point I can still move the compensator cover freely...
My assembly is correct per the site you mentioned BUT when I 'actuate' the sliding cam, it picks up the sprocket (as it should) untill it obviously blocks because I can't turn the crank by hand.
However, at that point I can still move the compensator cover freely...
I can't help thinking that the cover should be clamped by that nut. We could do with one of our experts here!
So I'm wondering if the actual force of the crank will push the cam outwards even more so that it will push against the cover and hence pick it up OR that something is amiss....?
Sorry for being thick BUT:
I've put together the primary drive for a testfitting.
First I've fitted the shim, then the two part sprocketassembly and on top of that the compensator.
Now when I turn the sprocket by hand it slides outwards as it should but the compensator can still turn freely?
Is that correct? Will it only grip when there's proper force applied as in: the engine turning over?
Bit confused me...
I've put together the primary drive for a testfitting.
First I've fitted the shim, then the two part sprocketassembly and on top of that the compensator.
Now when I turn the sprocket by hand it slides outwards as it should but the compensator can still turn freely?
Is that correct? Will it only grip when there's proper force applied as in: the engine turning over?
Bit confused me...
something is wrong there, comp nut might be bottoming out on the output shaft, check and see if your model bike suppose to have a spacer behind the rotor, some do, some don't.
You can check the primary chain alignment per service manual, might give you an indication of what's going on.
They have thin shims to adjust the alignment to within .030", but it shouldn't be way off.
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