1990 FLHS wiring issue
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 5,776
Likes: 7,811
From: SE Louisiana
The breaker will have two post with wires connected, you could use a screwdriver to jump across, which means to connect the two post together while applying the brakes to see if the gauges still drop out.
It's just a quick test in case the breaker is weak and disconnecting when loaded.
Be careful not to touch anything other metal when jumping across the breaker, don't want to do any arc welding
It's just a quick test in case the breaker is weak and disconnecting when loaded.
Be careful not to touch anything other metal when jumping across the breaker, don't want to do any arc welding
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,897
From: Bedford UK
If it's any help, many electrical problems are actually mechanical. That is to say they are caused by poor contacts, damaged wires, loose or rusty grounds, etc. So rigorous visual inspection can often find a suspicious feature that is the cause of the fault.
Last edited by grbrown; Feb 5, 2016 at 04:48 AM.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 149
Likes: 11
Well after a day and a half of looking, poking, and prodding, here is where I'm at.
With the ignition switch in the "Lights" position the "Volt and oil pressure gauges" works. When I apply either the front or rear brake both gauges lose power. Using a test light when I check the orange wire at the gauge it is hot all the time. When I check the black wire it does not have power. When I apply the brake the black wire is then energized.
So does this indicates a bad or missing ground? If so how do I isolate it. As I said above I have invested a solid eight hours in looking for it. I'm stumped
Roach
With the ignition switch in the "Lights" position the "Volt and oil pressure gauges" works. When I apply either the front or rear brake both gauges lose power. Using a test light when I check the orange wire at the gauge it is hot all the time. When I check the black wire it does not have power. When I apply the brake the black wire is then energized.
So does this indicates a bad or missing ground? If so how do I isolate it. As I said above I have invested a solid eight hours in looking for it. I'm stumped
Roach
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,062
Likes: 4,547
From: Haslet Texas
Well after a day and a half of looking, poking, and prodding, here is where I'm at.
With the ignition switch in the "Lights" position the "Volt and oil pressure gauges" works. When I apply either the front or rear brake both gauges lose power. Using a test light when I check the orange wire at the gauge it is hot all the time. When I check the black wire it does not have power. When I apply the brake the black wire is then energized.
So does this indicates a bad or missing ground? If so how do I isolate it. As I said above I have invested a solid eight hours in looking for it. I'm stumped
Roach
With the ignition switch in the "Lights" position the "Volt and oil pressure gauges" works. When I apply either the front or rear brake both gauges lose power. Using a test light when I check the orange wire at the gauge it is hot all the time. When I check the black wire it does not have power. When I apply the brake the black wire is then energized.
So does this indicates a bad or missing ground? If so how do I isolate it. As I said above I have invested a solid eight hours in looking for it. I'm stumped
Roach
Can you trace it?
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 149
Likes: 11
I traced the ground wires to plug #7 A&B then to plug #5 A&B (per wiring diagram). Seems to be fine at those points.
The anti dive assembly solenoid valve is clicking each time I apply the brake.
Oh yeah now my self cancelling turn signal isn't working. It just keeps getting better.
Roach
The anti dive assembly solenoid valve is clicking each time I apply the brake.
Oh yeah now my self cancelling turn signal isn't working. It just keeps getting better.
Roach