could use some help with battery drain
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 344
Likes: 6
From: WV
The voltage regulator or stator is my guess by looking at my wiring diagram, (the diode), or a bad switch. Besides that I don't see much there that could draw when turned off. Hot lead touching ground with frayed insulation?
You unhooked the batt now it won't draw through your test light. Maybe you moved the hot lead off of a short to ground, or you need to wiggle a bad switch? Idk.
I'd assume if the diode is bad (i guess it has one, idk), it's not going to reset itself by unhooking in the battery. If it's drawing backwards it's going to keep doing that. Least I would think so by what I know. And I don't know nothing
Good luck man
You unhooked the batt now it won't draw through your test light. Maybe you moved the hot lead off of a short to ground, or you need to wiggle a bad switch? Idk.
I'd assume if the diode is bad (i guess it has one, idk), it's not going to reset itself by unhooking in the battery. If it's drawing backwards it's going to keep doing that. Least I would think so by what I know. And I don't know nothing
Good luck man
Last edited by rk1997; Apr 7, 2016 at 12:53 PM.
Supporter
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 32
From: Ft.Worth, Texas
hey to everybody and thanks for the input,still tryin to chase it down, i tested the regulator by unpluggin it from its plug and putting test light to both terminals(one at a time) and the light didnt light, which led me to believe it isnt the reg(altho i had that happen before and replaced the reg). i'm thinkin maybe the solenoid as it is the only other part not wired to switch for power...?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,173
Likes: 12,742
From: South Carolina
Ignition switch off, voltage regulator connected.
Disconnect negative cable from battery.
Set multimeter to amps.
Touch one probe to negative battery post, the other probe to ground (frame, or the loose end of the cable you just disconnected).
If there is no amperage reading on the meter, it means there is no parasitic drain present.
If you do see an amperage reading on the meter, disconnect the voltage regulator (at the single wire at the battery or breaker), if this causes the reading to drop to zero, it means the regulator is the problem.
If disconnecting the regulator doesn`t change the reading, continue by disconnecting the breakers, one at a time (when you disconnect a breaker, leave it disconnected) until you find the circuit that is causing the parasitic drain on the battery.
If the meter still shows a draw, and all circuit breakers are disconnected, look for a problem in the wiring between the 15 amp breakers and the main breaker (ignition switch).
Disconnect negative cable from battery.
Set multimeter to amps.
Touch one probe to negative battery post, the other probe to ground (frame, or the loose end of the cable you just disconnected).
If there is no amperage reading on the meter, it means there is no parasitic drain present.
If you do see an amperage reading on the meter, disconnect the voltage regulator (at the single wire at the battery or breaker), if this causes the reading to drop to zero, it means the regulator is the problem.
If disconnecting the regulator doesn`t change the reading, continue by disconnecting the breakers, one at a time (when you disconnect a breaker, leave it disconnected) until you find the circuit that is causing the parasitic drain on the battery.
If the meter still shows a draw, and all circuit breakers are disconnected, look for a problem in the wiring between the 15 amp breakers and the main breaker (ignition switch).
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Apr 10, 2016 at 09:41 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 32,934
Likes: 36,032
From: Carlsbad, CA
So, depending upon how long it takes for your battery to run down, and at what point you consider it run down....you might just have a bad battery.
Do, I'd suggest getting a full charge in the battery (12.7 volts). . Then disconnect both battery cables, and let the bike sit for the amount of time it normally takes for the battery to run down. If it runs down in this condition, then you need a new battery.
Last edited by TriGeezer; Apr 10, 2016 at 12:35 PM.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 167
Likes: 12
From: florida
thats what im doin now, have battery disconnected and giving it the 5 days to see if it holds its start power...i had multi set on 10 amp and got that reading .02...so i took it from there that yes, it could just be a bad battery...let you know after monday,i try to start
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,173
Likes: 12,742
From: South Carolina
The test you did tells you how much current the motorcycle is drawing from the battery, it will not tell you the condition of the battery.
The result of your test shows that the motorcycle electrical system has a parasitic draw of 200 milliamps.
That will kill a 30 ampre hour rated battery in less than a week.
What was the reason for replacing the battery?
The result of your test shows that the motorcycle electrical system has a parasitic draw of 200 milliamps.
That will kill a 30 ampre hour rated battery in less than a week.
What was the reason for replacing the battery?
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Apr 10, 2016 at 01:36 PM.
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Just asking without cking
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