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T-Bar wiring help.

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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 10:45 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by kp877
I'm not going to try and dimple them read you need a special tool to do it properly plus I'd have to repull the harness out and basically start all over. I'm thinking of trying with the dremel and a round grinding wheel. I have to look to see what they have. I think a cutoff disc would work but I think it might hack it up too much. I don't know how well the dremel will work.
I would use this one if I were you.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-Tu...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 11:54 AM
  #12  
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Just walked out with this one. Looks like I grabbed the one you suggested. Should be easier to do than with a cutting wheel, no extra slice past where I need.

 

Last edited by br549A1; Apr 11, 2016 at 01:32 PM.
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 12:42 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Spanners39
DON'T!!!!!!!! They would have to be in a perfect fitting mould or former to do that without running the risk of fecking up the bars...you butcher tman!!!!


I need to go to bed now...have a good day y'all....
I'm sure Kev knows all about my sarcastic ways by now.
Originally Posted by kp877
I'm not going to try and dimple them read you need a special tool to do it properly plus I'd have to repull the harness out and basically start all over. I'm thinking of trying with the dremel and a round grinding wheel. I have to look to see what they have. I think a cutoff disc would work but I think it might hack it up too much. I don't know how well the dremel will work.
Slow and precise with a grinding bit... cut off wheel will be kind of hard when it's time to cut cross ways. To do the dimples you will need a special tool for sure, and a press probably.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 01:34 PM
  #14  
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Yes I'm well aware of your sarcasm! Although smashing it with a hammer wasn't far from my mind when I turned the key and circuit breakers started popping. Won't be far when I go try and get that service loop back in for the second time either! I updated the post above my picture didn't load for some reason. I got the cutting bit and two small grinding wheels. I think it will work out okay, we will see.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 02:05 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by kp877
Yes I'm well aware of your sarcasm! Although smashing it with a hammer wasn't far from my mind when I turned the key and circuit breakers started popping. Won't be far when I go try and get that service loop back in for the second time either! I updated the post above my picture didn't load for some reason. I got the cutting bit and two small grinding wheels. I think it will work out okay, we will see.
Tungsten carbide will be your best bet for small work. The pointed one can leave a bevel that can cut into the wiring if you're not careful.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 07:04 AM
  #16  
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Dremel worked well. Used the carbide bit and ended up needing both grinding stones to smooth the cuts and round it out. The bit was really hard to cut straight even at low speeds it wanted to bounce around. Got the clutch side on nice then did the throttle side and come to find out the flat spot for the master cylinder is not in the right spot for my set up either. More grinding will need to be done, it's only slightly too high but it makes everything cockeyed when tightening down the clamp. Hopefully it's a few more minutes of grinding and I should be good then onto the service loop hell.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 07:37 AM
  #17  
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Sounds like you're making good progress.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 07:42 AM
  #18  
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I've had this same issue and tried to dimple the bars because my brother in law insisted on a particular type of bar which of course didn't come dimpled. Grinding is the best approach. I will never buy non dimpled bars again
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 07:56 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by misfitJason
I've had this same issue and tried to dimple the bars because my brother in law insisted on a particular type of bar which of course didn't come dimpled. Grinding is the best approach. I will never buy non dimpled bars again
I just assumed a hole was going to be in the right spot, what a pain in the *** it was. Grinding upside down looking up isn't fun but it was still easier than getting that loop in. That I'm dreading, read about using a shoe lace and pulling from under the seat while pushing from the bottom. If anyone has any tricks let me know. Just folding and pushing really doesn't get it in there.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 09:04 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by kp877
I just assumed a hole was going to be in the right spot, what a pain in the *** it was. Grinding upside down looking up isn't fun but it was still easier than getting that loop in. That I'm dreading, read about using a shoe lace and pulling from under the seat while pushing from the bottom. If anyone has any tricks let me know. Just folding and pushing really doesn't get it in there.
Whenever I am trying to fish a wire/wire loom through something I start with a solid wire (as opposed to a braided wire) and once I get that through I connect the sold wire to what I want to pull through and just pull it through.

I don't know if that will work for you as I've never tried to run internal wires on handle bars.
Heard too many stories about wires chafing on the hole due to vibration of the bike.
 
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