EVO All Evo Model Discussion

rubber mounts

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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 07:50 AM
  #11  
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Use stock mounts with a True-Track kit, for better handling - makes a remarkable improvement!
 
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 08:05 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Yankee Dog
I looked up the "vibra technics predator" and it looks like a nice well built mount, however it is listed for 1999 to 2013 model years, too bad...YD

There's an Evo version, you're on the wrong site, there's two websites for some reason. I ran the prototype version before they put it up for sale. The one you need is HDD200M.


http://www.predatorvcs.com/harley_da...t_engine_mount
 

Last edited by br549A1; Jun 23, 2016 at 08:56 AM.
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 08:20 AM
  #13  
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Hello!

I allso have a -98 dynaglide, i´m going to change the front mount just to see what happens, i have some bad vibes i want to get rid off, don´t know what else it could be other than old rubber, no wobble and good cornering. I have a tube framed Buell and once owened a fxr and have never felt this kind of `shudder" in those bikes and they are allso rubber mounted motors.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 08:55 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by jyx
Hello!

I allso have a -98 dynaglide, i´m going to change the front mount just to see what happens, i have some bad vibes i want to get rid off, don´t know what else it could be other than old rubber, no wobble and good cornering. I have a tube framed Buell and once owened a fxr and have never felt this kind of `shudder" in those bikes and they are allso rubber mounted motors.

riser bushings will do it
 
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 12:50 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by kp877
riser bushings will do it
no, changed those last summer, this is something else.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 01:04 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by jyx
no, changed those last summer, this is something else.
Just because you changed them doesn't mean they are done right. I went through 2 new pair before I discovered it. 3rd set installed and torqued with some shimming and vibration free. And I don't care what anyone says polys will transmit more vibrations to your bars than rubber
 
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Old Jun 24, 2016 | 04:30 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by kp877
Just because you changed them doesn't mean they are done right. I went through 2 new pair before I discovered it. 3rd set installed and torqued with some shimming and vibration free. And I don't care what anyone says polys will transmit more vibrations to your bars than rubber
It´s kind of hard to explain whitout a test ride but the bars are fine (6" risers with dragbars)
it´s the bike that shakes at some RPM:s. The harder i drive it, the better it gets but i can´t go 90 mph all the time..... we´ll just se what happens when the rubbermount i ordered arrives.


 

Last edited by jyx; Jun 24, 2016 at 04:39 AM.
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Old Jun 24, 2016 | 05:19 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by jyx
It´s kind of hard to explain whitout a test ride but the bars are fine (6" risers with dragbars)
it´s the bike that shakes at some RPM:s. The harder i drive it, the better it gets but i can´t go 90 mph all the time..... we´ll just se what happens when the rubbermount i ordered arrives.


If you aren't looking to check what's suggested I can't help you. Been down this road it was a two year trip.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2016 | 11:15 AM
  #19  
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The vibration point on mine changed when I replaced all 3 mounts. It used to be impossible to ride between 58 & 62 mph but above 70 is was smooth as glass. With new mounts the vibration zone is heaviest from 65 to 70, at 70 it smooths out but not as much as it used to. It's very comfortable up to 65.
Search Google for the Service Bulletin on Dyna vibration, there are two processes, one for settling in the motor mounts and one for settling in the exhaust. Both will help.
BTW KP's right about the riser bushings, mine were over torqued. The buzz made my nose itch so bad I could hardly see. Re- torqueing to 35# made a difference I can feel.
 

Last edited by Son of PMS; Jun 24, 2016 at 11:29 AM.
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Old Jun 24, 2016 | 12:26 PM
  #20  
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its a process and you can't just assume its done right, you have to look closely underneath, see how pancaked they are and if they are sticking out or cracked, check the torque on them before you loosen them. pull them apart, check the condition of the cupped washers, are they bent at all? Get a washer that is 1/2" ID and " OD to match the inner ring of the cupped washer for the bottom only. You only need one for the top if the bottom of your risers isn't flush against the cup, if part sticks out further like on most t-bars you need to take up that space too with a small washer ON TOP of the cupped washer, not below it as well. Then torque it up to 35 ft lbs with blue Loctite and the bushings will not collapse and they should be very tight and it will be very smooth. Key is finding the right size washer that fits in there just right. Most people just snug them until tight, I even asked a couple shops and they said there's no torque spec just tighten them up, that's not correct and there's a bulletin for 35 ft lbs. You can do this is about 15 minutes once you have the washers. Night and day. I replaced all three mounts, aligned it multiple times, changed bearings etc...it was more stable as my mounts were shot, but NOTHING got rid of the mind numbing vibration including poly bushings, this was it.
 
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