When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
K1668 isn't compatible. I have to use the S&S 92-2029 pistons with the super stock heads due to the D shelf interference if not used as many here had stated.
Just curious here, but in post 6 you said it did this without the heads being on. Was that incorrect or just mis-typed? Nothing for them to hit if the heads weren't there to hit..
Sometimes it gets frustrating and things are writen that are a confusion of something else.... As stated earlier. I think those S&S heads are piston specific....
To clarify my answer IBDGRIZ and the others, you were right it was the Piston skirts hitting. Which is what was causing the lock up condition when my heads and push rods weren't installed. That's why S&S super stock heads have to have a piston made by S&S or have relief work done I presume. Thanks again all for your time and in sharing your experienced technical advice it's greatly appreciated.
So now that I don't have any D shelf interference with the 92-2029 S&S pistons that were sent to me, I do have the pistons now hitting the S&S super stock heads. I once again talked to the S&S techs. and they now tell me the motor I have is stroked 4 5/8 so they're now sending me 92-2049 pistons which should work based on the S&S 2400 pistons that came out. UGH!!
I now see why some things should be left to professionals. Due to me buying the engine from a good friend who was killed why riding with a skull cap earlier this year, the internals of this engine I can no longer confirm. In any case while looking through the timing plug hole I was able to get some numbers off the crank in hopes of figuring out what wheels I have. The numbers are R260-S61.
S&S says that's not they're crank so I'm assuming it's maybe a Delkron crank because the cases are Delkron. Do the numbers sound familiar to anyone here?
I was able to read them with a mirror so I'm assuming Delkron makes them because that's how you have to read the block serial numbers...Thanks again for the help, I hoping that soon I'll be up and running again...
Oh and one more gomer pyle question of the day... The connecting rod bushings have a hole which i assume is for oiling. Is that hole supposed to be aligned with the hole on the rod? Is it critical because the holes are no longer aligned. It maybe time for a machine shop to check the lower end as well so I can at least get a few reliable miles from this motor....
If you are referring to the hole on top of the rod, yes. It should be lined up.
You can check the basic health of the lower end by checking the rods yourself. If they pass mustard on the tests, you are probably in good shape bottom end wise.
No reason to pay someone to do the easy stuff since you're this far along.
If they don't pass testing, you can dis-assemble/re-assemble it yourself too and save money after it's rebuilt.
It maybe time for a machine shop to check the lower end as well so I can at least get a few reliable miles from this motor....
I'm an over-do everything guy, so with all this uncertainty (and since you are already most of the way there), I'd probably go ahead and split the cases to at least see exactly what you are working with and make sure everything is as it should be.
OTOH, odds are the new pistons you have coming will be the end of it, and you'll get her bolted back together and everything runs fine.
Ok so I took Omaha's advice and had the cases split due to the over excessive play in the rods. After doing so the tech. showed me where the Pinion bearing race/Right case had spun and was beginning to walk it's way out. It's a good thing that I split the cases as you guys advised. Now I have to find a 5 over race for Delkron cases.
A couple of questions hopefully can be answered. Is this a common problem on Evolution engines? And should I contact Delkron regarding getting a race? And if I do get in touch with them are they helpful as far as technical advice? The technician says they are having problems finding one to work/fit. Kind of makes me think that putting my engine back together isn't on their priority list, but I maybe wrong. Also what would cause the race to spin like it did? I pretty much baby the bike and change the oil every 3,000 miles. Any answers or help you guys can provide will be greatly appreciated cause there's only a month left of good weather and I'd like to ride before winter sets in ugh....Thanks again for your time...
