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My favorite is finding 3 or 4 of those T-Tap wire connectors in series in one run of wire, like the tail light. I refer to that as "Harley Rider Electrics."
I will grant that a PROPER crimp using PROPER crimping tools and PROPER crimps PROPERLY sized for the exact wires involved is going to be very good, maybe even better than a good job soldering. However, us shade tree mechanics don't have complete connector sets and very expensive crimpers, but we do have soldering irons, flux core solder and shrink wrap. As long as we aren't trying to do competition open water cigarette boats, I think we will be fine.
I know everyone will disagree with me, but a properly done crimp with quality connectors and quality tools is superior to solder in a high vibration application like a Harley. Or a boat.
You must not deal with saltwater but obviously done right they work since factory has them. They have never worked for me however. Especially those barrel crimp and plug in junk.
Well it's a Friday night and I'm splitting cases lol. I'm ready to go to my buddies shop to mill out the cases for the new cylinders to fit. I'm really thinking I need the stroker crank now..... man is it addicting. Getting started Rocker box covers off I spy pushrods Look some carbon covered pistons Fly wheel Front cylinder parts Rear cylinder parts
really severe cold can cause the tin in solder to grow little metal hairs - a process called "tin pest" - this can make for mystery in electronic systems....
solder can crystallize over time with vibration and thus create a broken solder joint.
wires tend to fatigue and crack right next to the solder joint - particularly if the solder wicked up the wire past the connector or lug...particularly if it's not physically snug but left free to vibrate.
When a final connection is made it's nice to put a daub of lacquer on the screw - if honey's got some nail polish that's handy.
solder creeps (so do all metals, but solder can't be safely left in any serious tension - it creeps in hours, not eons)
I solder my wires on my bikes...but pay careful attention to strain-relief and dressing the runs to avoid abrasion and so forth... I play "what if" as I lay things down...try to think the job out into the future to visualize future problems for which I may be planting the seeds...and of course avoid making those mistakes.
Ok so after a couple hours in the garage tonight I got the bike completely torn down to the frame. I am going to bring it to work with me on Wednesday and strip the paint off and and paint it black again. I have the motor in the trunk of my car all torn down so I can bring it with me to bore out the cases to except the new cylinders. Big things are starting to happen finally and I'll be able to start putting **** on the frame instead of removing it.
i started trying to paint strip my frame last night and I can tell you that the factory coating does not come off so easy. I thought I would pick up a soda blaster but have decided to just have a local shop sandblast it for 65 bucks. I think I should of done this from the start.
A quick question for this intelligent bunch of guys. When I was boring out my cases I cut into my bolt holes for the case. Has anyone else had this problem and if so what is the remedy?
A quick question for this intelligent bunch of guys. When I was boring out my cases I cut into my bolt holes for the case. Has anyone else had this problem and if so what is the remedy?
Are you talking about the bolts that hold the 2 half of the case together? Typically the rear upper one? If so that would be normal if you're boring to 3.625 or larger for a 96"-98" Evo I know mine came out that way as well. Nothing to worry about. Now, If its for the jug studs you might want to call an Expert in the field... I don't think it'll help you any especially if your building a High compression motor...
Getting there slowly. I have the crank installed with new larger pistons. The cam shaft is temp in until I can get the new lock washer for it. I have a new 32 amp charging system installed. The new polished oil pump is installed with a new billet breather gear. I found a guy a few towns over is powder coating my frame and swing arm after he sand blasts it. So once I get it back I'll be putting **** together. My next challenge is the transmission. I am not sure what way to go. I am having a problem from going to fourth from 3rd under load. Is it smart to replace all the gears or just the 4th?
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
