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Having trouble catching neutral

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Old Dec 9, 2016 | 08:33 AM
  #1  
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Default Having trouble catching neutral

Was a thread posted about this awhile back but I can't locate it.

Adjusted clutch several weeks ago. Since that time have had a hard time catching neutral with engine running. Have double checked the fluid level and it's fine, ensured that clutch plates clearance is ok, ball and ramp are set, there is no pull from the engine when at a stop. Just can't catch neutral.

If I turn off engine I can pop into neutral with no problem.

I used a nickle to gauge cable free play. Is this where I went wrong ?
 
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Old Dec 9, 2016 | 09:00 AM
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It might be the clutch adjustment screw. I believe my manual says to turn the clutch adjustment screw until you feel slight resistance, then back it out 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn . When I did this, it was very difficult to find neutral. I turned the adjustment screw clockwise 1/2 a turn, (basically, back to the point where I felt the resistance). Since I did that, it's very easy for me to find neutral, and the bike shifts perfectly. It took some trial and error to get it just right.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2016 | 10:29 AM
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I adjust my clutch as per the book, but reduce cable slack to a minimum, which helps. Das's suggestion is also worth a try. Our older clutches are marginal when it comes to getting the clutch to work just right. Another thing worth trying is to snick into neutral while still rolling, when you can. On my bike although it is fine finding neutral when stationary, it soons heats uo and starts dragging. I've swapped to Barnett kevlar plates, but have yet to try them out.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2016 | 08:49 PM
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My experience is, if the clutch is too 'tight' (not enough free space in the clutch stack), the clutch will 'drag' and neutral will be difficult to hit stopped. If it's too loose (too much free space in the stack) the clutch will 'slip', e.g., in the higher gears under a load.

In the Primary/Transmission/Driveline/Clutch section on this site, look at the 'sticky' titled "Clutch Adjustment The Easy Way". I recommend trying that.

Alan
 
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Old Dec 9, 2016 | 09:13 PM
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Don't forget and variance in primary fluid level will make finding neutral next to impossible. But if that's been checked, is it easier to find neutral when rolling to a stop? What level is the transmission fluid at?

Also when checking the primary chain tension, do you roll the bike around and check the chain at different spots? They stretch kinda uneven. I usually check, roll 1 ft, check, roll 1 ft, and repeat a few times.

Edit: I'd be looking in the primary if neutral is hard to find, a loose primary chain can cause that as well as fluid level.
 

Last edited by Yamaharley; Dec 9, 2016 at 09:18 PM.
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Old Dec 9, 2016 | 09:20 PM
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Clutch adjustment, primary chain adjustment, and proper fluid and level. I also give a little blip on the throttle.
If there is any upshift or downshift issues along with it you may need to adjust the shift pawl.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2016 | 06:57 AM
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when stopped I hold light pressure on the shifter and blip the throttle, it usually pops right into neutral
 
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Old Dec 10, 2016 | 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Yamaharley
Don't forget and variance in primary fluid level will make finding neutral next to impossible. But if that's been checked, is it easier to find neutral when rolling to a stop? What level is the transmission fluid at?

Also when checking the primary chain tension, do you roll the bike around and check the chain at different spots? They stretch kinda uneven. I usually check, roll 1 ft, check, roll 1 ft, and repeat a few times.

Edit: I'd be looking in the primary if neutral is hard to find, a loose primary chain can cause that as well as fluid level.
+1 on what he said. Primary chain adjustment has a lot to do with finding that elusive neutral. If the fluid hasn't been swapped out for many miles, it's time to do so and adjust that chain.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2016 | 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by AlanStansbery
My experience is, if the clutch is too 'tight' (not enough free space in the clutch stack), the clutch will 'drag' and neutral will be difficult to hit stopped. If it's too loose (too much free space in the stack) the clutch will 'slip', e.g., in the higher gears under a load.
Description is backwards... too tight and the clutch may slip under load, too loose and the clutch may drag.

If you adjust the cable and clutch too tight, it will make it easier to find neutral, but...it could cause the clutch to slip, and also the throwout bearing and pushrod may be under constant pressure, which will trash both.

Proper clutch adjustment is more than just finding neutral easily.
 

Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Dec 10, 2016 at 07:27 AM.
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Old Dec 10, 2016 | 08:54 AM
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My 97 along with other earlier HD's had been finicky to find neutral.

It was a project bike from the start and finding neutral was tuff.
Went through all suggestions here and replaced a clutch basket for a vibration thinking this might help with finding neutral. Well It didn't

With the clutch adjusted a bit tight it did make neutral easier but we knew the throw out bearing wasn't going live long. So we adjusted it properly did all the ck's mentioned on the forum.

All in all I adjusted to the bike rather than trying to adjust it. The throttle blip while having to be learned and practiced has served me well.

WP
 
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