EVO All Evo Model Discussion

Softail Rear Brake Piston Won't Compress

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Old Mar 22, 2017 | 07:37 AM
  #11  
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A peice of wood does well in front of the piston when blowing it out wuth compressed air. And DO keep fingers out of the way.

Ya may want to consider replacement of the caliper if stuck that badly. Most likely will have lots of corrosion in there.

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Old Mar 22, 2017 | 07:55 AM
  #12  
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Appreciate all the fast replies. Looks like at least a complete rebuild needed and can determine if caliper needs replacing after disassembly. Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2017 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 0maha
I'd assume the piston is stuffed anyway. Just replace it, along with replacing all the caliper seals. I'd go ahead and throw a rebuild kit in the master cylinder also, and replace the brake line.
Damn man you ain't scared to spend somebody's money are you?????
 
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Old Mar 22, 2017 | 09:06 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by JimRob
Appreciate all the fast replies. Looks like at least a complete rebuild needed and can determine if caliper needs replacing after disassembly. Thanks.
If you get it from the dealership it's expensive but it also gives you a new piston and some grease for it.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2017 | 09:09 AM
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43946-86 is the caliper kit with the piston.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....PER%20ASSEMBLY
 
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Old Mar 22, 2017 | 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by JimRob
I just got this 1995 Heritage Softail and I'm replacing the completely worn out rear pads, but cannot get the brake caliper piston to compress. I've removed the front reservoir cover, opened the rear caliper bleeder valve and with using a screw clamp, still can't get the piston to budge. The caliper bleeds OK when tested. I'm about to try removing the brake line, opening the bleeder valve and try again. Any suggestions? Is it possible the piston is frozen and the caliper needs to be rebuilt? I've never encountered a situation like this where the piston won't compress. The rear brake worked OK on the 50 mile ride home and didn't drag and it bleeds OK, but I'm stumped.
I am not sure if this was just improperly stated or if that is what you actually did. If you are working on the rear brakes, you shouldn't have to mess with the front master cylinder. Did you take the cover off the rear master cylinder or the front one?
 
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Old Mar 22, 2017 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
Damn man you ain't scared to spend somebody's money are you?????
Damn straight!

But seriously, on a bike that's that old and was sitting for that long, and on something as important as the brakes, and given that you can probably buy all the parts you need for under $100, and given that the bike is already "down"...hell yes I'd just do it all. Last thing I want to do is half-*** the job only to have to take it back apart later because I didn't whole-*** it in the first place.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2017 | 09:40 AM
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I've gotta agree with Omaha ... Go through the system while it's down and ensure yourself of trouble free braking.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2017 | 11:09 AM
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Speaking of spending money, it is possible that a frozen piston caused the pads to be so worn. That would have caused a lot of heat, so check out the rotor. Look for warpage and/or cracks. Good luck.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2017 | 02:52 PM
  #20  
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Prot makes a good point. OP the rear master cylinder is down by the rear brake pedal mounted on the frame. I know could just be terminology but if it's bleeding it should be moving. You say you are trying to compress it try some PB Blaster on it and let it sit with some pressure from the clamp on it. Definitely sounds like you will need to do a complete tear down on it if it is stuck.
Pull it all the way off the bike so you can work on it without the hose attached on your bench.
 
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