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Cam sensor question.

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Old Apr 26, 2017 | 08:52 PM
  #11  
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The Sportster shop manual has a how-to on the sensor. Here it is:

Meter on ohms, 1X.
Test: Check for grounds. Black meter lead to the sensor plate. Red lead to each of the 3 wires at the plug to the sensor. Correct reading: Infinite resistance. If you read anything else, the sensor is bad.

Test: Sensor output1. Black lead to black wire of plug pin. Red to green sensor wire. Infinite resistance=OK. Any resistance = replace.

Test: Sensor output2. Black lead to green sensor wire. Red lead to black sensor wire. 300-750 K ohms=OK. Infinite = replace. Note that the books specifically says to use the x1 ohms scale but calls 300 ohms to 750,000 ohms an acceptable range, but infinite (open) as bad.

In general, these things fail in a heat related fashion, eventually blowing open all the time. Otherwise, they work or they don't. That is, if there is an RPM specific problem, it isn't the sensor plate.
 

Last edited by Dr.Hess; Apr 29, 2017 at 07:34 AM.
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 09:47 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by kp877
Any luck? Can these things fail partially or at different RPMs or are they just working or dead and no start/spark?
Not yet.
Kid brought home a cold from school and was nice enough to share it with me.
I shoulda taught that kid to be more selfish and not share!!!!!

Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
The Sportster shop manual has a how-to on the sensor. Here it is:

Meter on ohms, 1X.
Test: Check for grounds. Black meter lead to the sensor plate. Red lead to each of the 3 wires at the plug to the sensor. Correct reading: Infinite resistance. If you read anything else, the sensor is bad.

Test: Sensor output1. Black lead to black wire of plug pin. Red to green sensor wire. Infinite resistance=OK. Any resistance = replace.

Test: Sensor output2. Black lead to green sensor wire. Read lead to black sensor wire. 300-750 K ohms=OK. Infinite = replace. Note that the books specifically says to use the x1 ohms scale but calls 300 ohms to 750,000 ohms an acceptable range, but infinite (open) as bad.

In general, these things fail in a heat related fashion, eventually blowing open all the time. Otherwise, they work or they don't. That is, if there is an RPM specific problem, it isn't the sensor plate.

Thanks Doc that's what I was looking for!!!!!
 
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 10:58 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
The Sportster shop manual has a how-to on the sensor. Here it is:

Meter on ohms, 1X.
Test: Check for grounds. Black meter lead to the sensor plate. Red lead to each of the 3 wires at the plug to the sensor. Correct reading: Infinite resistance. If you read anything else, the sensor is bad.

Test: Sensor output1. Black lead to black wire of plug pin. Red to green sensor wire. Infinite resistance=OK. Any resistance = replace.

Test: Sensor output2. Black lead to green sensor wire. Read lead to black sensor wire. 300-750 K ohms=OK. Infinite = replace. Note that the books specifically says to use the x1 ohms scale but calls 300 ohms to 750,000 ohms an acceptable range, but infinite (open) as bad.

In general, these things fail in a heat related fashion, eventually blowing open all the time. Otherwise, they work or they don't. That is, if there is an RPM specific problem, it isn't the sensor plate.
Good stuff right there Dr. Thank you.....
 
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 09:16 PM
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Ok so I get infinite when I run the black lead to the sensor plate and to any of the leads green red or black stripe. Now if I test any of the leads to any other lead I also get infinite. I don't get resistance anywhere. Anyone else confirm if they get the same?
 
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 08:24 AM
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I just tested a known good switch. #32448-95A and I also had infinite readings all around. I also tested a brand new Standard electric Hall effect switch and got the same readings....

Here's a link I found to diagnose a Hall effect sensor. Unfortunately the are no ohms resistance tests. You'll need the sensor in the bike with key on to measure volts DC. The sensor switches between 0 volts and 5 volts while turning the engine over, If it does your good to go. I have seen where heat will effect the signal so cold it will do it's job but when hot it won't..

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/D...is-and-Testing
 

Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Apr 28, 2017 at 08:39 AM.
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 10:09 AM
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98. Only reason I'm going over it is I've always found my electrical problems to be intermittent and never 100% fail. I found a used 2000i I can grab for $65 but it's as is untested. Might work might not if it does it would be a great deal.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by kp877
Ok so I get infinite when I run the black lead to the sensor plate and to any of the leads green red or black stripe. Now if I test any of the leads to any other lead I also get infinite. I don't get resistance anywhere. Anyone else confirm if they get the same?
Try with your meter on the 1K or higher scale. I think that either the 300 ohms or the 750K Ohms might have been a misprint in the FSM. That range is too great. However, if the sensor output test 2 shows open:

Black lead to green sensor wire. Red lead to black sensor wire.

even with your meter on a higher resistance scale, that sensor is shot.

Do you have a no spark condition?
 
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 10:55 AM
  #18  
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Hey Doc, tried a different meter and on my OEM sensor with black/black and red/green yes it's infinite. With red/black and black/green I have 978k ohms. On my new Standard Electric sensor same way I have infinite/263k ohm's. I know they both work and I would think my OEM might be on its way out at 978k ohm's. It is showing a little heat melt but still works.....

 
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 11:23 AM
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I guess I'll have to try a different meter. I'm getting infinite on any of the 3 pins. Using and actron says it goes down to .1 ohms should be fine everything else it test with it works. My sensor appears to be a little different but not sure why they since they use the same ignition modules
 
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 11:48 AM
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Take the sensor out of the nose cone. The rotor could be interrupting the proper signal...
 
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