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Oil coming into the primary from the engine. I'm going to replace the seal and spacer. The spacer has witness groove on the backside of the spacer where it meets the compensator shaft bearing. Going to compare old with new one when it comes in. I didn't have to take out the rotor, but wanted to ensure I clean and prep the area for reassembly. Plus, inspect my case insert, since it's an '89 engine. Case insert looks good to the naked eye.
Process of replacement for seal and spacer?
1. Should I install the spacer, then install the seal
OR
2. Put seal on the spacer, and then install the whole thing.
I'm leaning towards #1, since there's a step in the race where the seal will stop anyway. The spacer has some lateral free play back and forth. At least this was the case when I took both out.
Going to loctite the plastic hold down screws and rotor bolts. I read about putting some loctite on outside diameter of seal, but not sure if I need to do that.
Took some random pictures. Any other suggestions? Thanks.
Oil coming into the primary from the engine. I'm going to replace the seal and spacer. The spacer has witness groove on the backside of the spacer where it meets the compensator shaft bearing. Going to compare old with new one when it comes in. I didn't have to take out the rotor, but wanted to ensure I clean and prep the area for reassembly. Plus, inspect my case insert, since it's an '89 engine. Case insert looks good to the naked eye.
Process of replacement for seal and spacer?
1. Should I install the spacer, then install the seal
OR
2. Put seal on the spacer, and then install the whole thing.
I'm leaning towards #1, since there's a step in the race where the seal will stop anyway. The spacer has some lateral free play back and forth. At least this was the case when I took both out.
Going to loctite the plastic hold down screws and rotor bolts. I read about putting some loctite on outside diameter of seal, but not sure if I need to do that.
Took some random pictures. Any other suggestions? Thanks.
Scotch brite the spacer.... If there is indeed a groove, replace it..... Install spacer first then seal. You do not need loctite on the seal..... but yes (blue) for the stator bolts.....
Don't forget blue Loctite on the two small screws and plastic clip thing that holds the stator wires out of the way. Those holes pass through and if not sealed with the Loctite, oil can pass just like a bad seal will pass oil. YD
Guys, just closing this post out for historical value, so some person can search in the future. I finally replaced the crankcase oil seal and spacer on the 89 FLHTC. The technique I used was to apply assembly lube to the seal lip, slip seal onto the spacer, and then drove it in as one with a home made install tool, then push the spacer in to touch the bearing. I put the seal in BACKWARDS, because I'm not worried about any vacuum sucking primary oil into the engine theory. Guys who run dry primary also do this. Loctited all appropriate fasteners and correct torque specs closing her up.
She's running great with no further loss of engine oil.
Last edited by daven9113; Jun 29, 2017 at 09:22 PM.
Sheet metal screws and pry...
Daven... ya had me goin on the "rotor" but... I realized finally that you was talkin about the Stator...and that the Thread is older than my Phone...
Terminology is paramount in a tech Thread...
Sheet metal screws and pry...
Daven... ya had me goin on the "rotor" but... I realized finally that you was talkin about the Stator...and that the Thread is older than my Phone...
Terminology is paramount in a tech Thread...
Thanks. I see how that would work with the way the seal is currently installed since thier would be room for screw to enter before hitting bearing but he originally had the face of seal toward the crank and that gap would no longer be there.
Don’t clise it!
Leave it as an open siuce of information. When some
one edits it, it will bring ti the top and others can continue to build in it snd increase its value
Thanks. I see how that would work with the way the seal is currently installed since thier would be room for screw to enter before hitting bearing but he originally had the face of seal toward the crank and that gap would no longer be there.
In which case just hook the edge of the open end with a Small pry or Screwing driver...
Originally Posted by splattttttt
Dont clise it!
Leave it as an open siuce of information. When some
one edits it, it will bring ti the top and others can continue to build in it snd increase its value
???? Maybe... but in general when something like this "resurrection" happens... it is most generally the result of Using the search function... which is a good thing...No?
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