Spell Casted
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 5,828
Likes: 7,859
From: SE Louisiana
You have to adjust the rear wheel 90* vertical to the frame first,
well actually, adjust rear wheel axle parallel to the pivot shaft is first.
Front rotor 90*, same as rear, doesn't matter where the handlebars point or if stuff is bent, then you can string it.
Just stringing it will get you crabbing down the road too, if that's good enough for ya.
Hey Bumbandrun, I see where your username came from,
I raced Karts 11 years
well actually, adjust rear wheel axle parallel to the pivot shaft is first.
Front rotor 90*, same as rear, doesn't matter where the handlebars point or if stuff is bent, then you can string it.
Just stringing it will get you crabbing down the road too, if that's good enough for ya.
Hey Bumbandrun, I see where your username came from,
I raced Karts 11 years
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,082
Likes: 2,159
From: Ohio
Not being a wise azz as I do have lasers I have used in kart racing and oval track cars. But does anybody just string there bike after sitting it level? I understand the vibration bs won't use anything but soft sloppy HD rubber now on my everyday bike . The good stuff is too damn stiff. Use it on the hot rod stuff.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,082
Likes: 2,159
From: Ohio
Loading up the AR and possibly Twinkie hunting, can't get rid of the 1600-1800 vibration, I mean bounce your sunglasses vibration. Followed alot of advice here, did fix the 2000 rpm vibration under accel. Checked the compensator and tightness, clutch nut, loosened the exhaust, Glide Pro front mount, put a PowerCommander on it to alter fuel in the problem area, new plugs, SEA FOAM didn't even fix it, put the bike on a lift and checked for engine clearance, exhaust clearance.
Haven't never ran this engine above 3500 rpms and problem showed up all at once as mentioned earlier. Ran it up into higher rpms and can feel engine vibrations matching engine speed in the floor boards, 1600-1800 is a paint mixer until the clutch is pulled. Thinking bad news, adjusted the primary chain tighter when checking inside the primary, road it to work 35 miles and the vibrations below 2300 rpm became unbearing and waiting for parts to fly off, smooths out 2500-3000 on the interstate but then can start feeling it in the floorboards when going higher. The tightening of the primary chain making the vibration go off the charts, I think I have a scissored crank, checking run out on the pinion side most likely prove it and in a way will be sad and happy
Haven't never ran this engine above 3500 rpms and problem showed up all at once as mentioned earlier. Ran it up into higher rpms and can feel engine vibrations matching engine speed in the floor boards, 1600-1800 is a paint mixer until the clutch is pulled. Thinking bad news, adjusted the primary chain tighter when checking inside the primary, road it to work 35 miles and the vibrations below 2300 rpm became unbearing and waiting for parts to fly off, smooths out 2500-3000 on the interstate but then can start feeling it in the floorboards when going higher. The tightening of the primary chain making the vibration go off the charts, I think I have a scissored crank, checking run out on the pinion side most likely prove it and in a way will be sad and happy
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,082
Likes: 2,159
From: Ohio
My ears are open, I checked the clutch hub tightness, pulled the center plate off and hit it with a impact, reverse threads
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,066
Likes: 4,568
From: Haslet Texas
Sorry I don't remember more.
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I remember him talking about that last year at the meetup. IIRC, he ended up replacing the whole thing.
