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Repaired the White Bikes flat tire last weekend and it has been setting due the Twinkie I just bought has a vibration from hell set in.
When purchased the Twinkie had a bad clank when hitting bumps and frame vibrations when rear brake applied, was narrowed to swing arm bushings. Took a chance on DS bushings and the clang is gone BUT after 30 miles it was a tooth rattler in the 1700-1900 rpm range and progressed deeper in the rpm's with further distance. Installed HD bushings and the vibrations tapered off some but after 30 miles the vibrations came in but livable, but annoying.
Did a 3 mount loose bushing bolt engine running shake down and managed to lose some idle vibes and thought it was fixed but no! 30 miles and back. Have it narrowed down to the front mount getting looser after some heat and bouncing around with a Glide Pro ordered since HD front mounts seem to be on a roller coaster ride with updates.
Working on putting together a laser alignment system with my rifle laser bore sighter, front tire T stand with a measurement reference chart mounted to the front of it, a quality moly pipe with the laser centered in the pipe clamped to the rear tire pointing to the chart.
Reading up on Harley's is a alignment problem will bind the rubber mounts and cause vibrations, still think mine is a weak front mount but not going to not check the alignment because it is pissing me off.
Very possible the White Bike vodoo'd my butt and going to get on it this weekend to ride a frame free vibration bike, shoot it still has the 97 mounts and takes anything I can throw at it, Evo winning this one so far and it's vibrations are at idle saying bring it on big boy.
Last edited by 1997bagger; Aug 11, 2017 at 07:06 PM.
You probably know all this already, but just in case,
I'm guessing you changed the rear donuts, the belt side is most always sagged with enough miles on them, and definitely throws the alignment off.
I do the Glide pro method for alignment, except I use a bike jack and shim with quarters to level frame, and I use only one laser by tracing the line off the rear rotor on the ground before moving it to the front rotor.
Been running the Glide Pro front mount on the black bike for quite a while, trick there is to tighten the center bolt to where it's snug, but can still be turned, I double nut it too, and that the alignment doesn't have the bolt in a bind.
If all else fails, since you ARE using a rifle, well you know.....
LOL, using the laser system that sights a scope to the barrel bore but firing a warning shot might make this Twinkie realize it could be in trouble it continues to f**k with me
I do the Glide pro method for alignment, except I use a bike jack and shim with quarters to level frame, and I use only one laser by tracing the line off the rear rotor on the ground before moving it to the front rotor.
Yes I do like the rotor laser method, it will work better with a offset in a wheel/tire, just trying to work with what I have for now.
Appreciate any info on bad vibrations, more common on a Harley than I thought, seems some owners never found the problem by the research I've done.
Not being a wise azz as I do have lasers I have used in kart racing and oval track cars. But does anybody just string there bike after sitting it level? I understand the vibration bs won't use anything but soft sloppy HD rubber now on my everyday bike . The good stuff is too damn stiff. Use it on the hot rod stuff.
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