LED turn signals, load equalizers, etc...
Yeah, the best way is to use a plug and play system someone else already worked out. A 100 Watt resistor is not small. Neither is a 50. I bet that if you pull one of the bulbs on each side, the module would still work fine, and that would be around 6 Ohms. You might get b y with an 8 ohm resistor, which would be around 20 Watts. Assuming a 50% duty cycle, you might get by with a 10 Watt resistor without letting the smoke out. The resistors, of course, need to be in parallel to your LED's. The LED bulbs probably have some type of current limiting resistor inside them.
But, the easy way is to use a store bought unit. RHBB shows another example of a Kury product failing.
Oh, try superbrightleds.com for your resistors. They have it all worked out.
But, the easy way is to use a store bought unit. RHBB shows another example of a Kury product failing.
Oh, try superbrightleds.com for your resistors. They have it all worked out.
Thanks.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,139
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From: Poolville
LED's are the way to go... A lot brighter... I purchased 2 rear bullet style directionals a few years ago that must have had a built in equalizer. Put them on and everything still worked the same. Not sure if it was because of the newer style TSM or not... I'm also going to be installing a 32w cob led replacement unit for my headlamp. It's rated at 3000 lumens on hi beam as where the old 55/65 qaurtz halogen only had an 1850 lumens rating. Should be here Saturday. I'll let you know how I make out if your want...
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
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From: Bedford UK
I have a Badlands module, just one, which is designed to do exactly what you seem to be after (as I was). However I believe they also do a dedicated LED module which provides the same facilities that the stock H-D flasher module does, as mentioned by Dr H. So if you buy an aftermarket solution, you can sort out everything in one hit.
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Lafayette, Louisiana
Get the solid state badlands module.
When I redid my lighting a couple of years ago that is what I did.
The problem with going with old fashioned resistors or the old type of module is they generate heat. It gets a lot worse when in parade mode and can potentially start a fire. That information came from Badlands. A fire on a bike has got to be a horrible thing.
I went with custom Dynamics LED's all the way around. They are made like a disc insert with a bunch of tiny LED's on them. The disk has a pair of wires coming out of it that go into what looks like the brass base of a standard 1157 or 1156 incandescent bulb.
For my tail / brake light I went with custom Dynamics as well. It was a rectangular shaped board with a bunch of tiny LED's on it and was made similar to the turn signals. This was much much cheaper than the popular Bright *** Tail Light and worked just as good.
My fender tip lights were a rectangular board with LED's and the bottom of the board was made just like the connector of the push in 192 incandescent lights.
I have a thread around somewhere about it. It is probably easier to look at my photo albums for the results.
When I redid my lighting a couple of years ago that is what I did.
The problem with going with old fashioned resistors or the old type of module is they generate heat. It gets a lot worse when in parade mode and can potentially start a fire. That information came from Badlands. A fire on a bike has got to be a horrible thing.
I went with custom Dynamics LED's all the way around. They are made like a disc insert with a bunch of tiny LED's on them. The disk has a pair of wires coming out of it that go into what looks like the brass base of a standard 1157 or 1156 incandescent bulb.
For my tail / brake light I went with custom Dynamics as well. It was a rectangular shaped board with a bunch of tiny LED's on it and was made similar to the turn signals. This was much much cheaper than the popular Bright *** Tail Light and worked just as good.
My fender tip lights were a rectangular board with LED's and the bottom of the board was made just like the connector of the push in 192 incandescent lights.
I have a thread around somewhere about it. It is probably easier to look at my photo albums for the results.
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
I'm not sure what brand mine are, but my LED flashers fit that description.
I'm kind of tempted by a new module.
But looking around a bit, I don't see any that have the integration with the speedometer like I currently do. Kind of hate to take a step backward there. Anyone know of a module that includes that?
I might be willing to give up that feature in exchange for the "turn your turn signals into brake lights" thing. That would be nice.
PS: Closest I can find is the Badlands ATS-03-A, which is a direct plug in replacement for my OEM module. That's nice. But it doesn't include the speed sensitive function, which is too bad.
But looking around a bit, I don't see any that have the integration with the speedometer like I currently do. Kind of hate to take a step backward there. Anyone know of a module that includes that?
I might be willing to give up that feature in exchange for the "turn your turn signals into brake lights" thing. That would be nice.
PS: Closest I can find is the Badlands ATS-03-A, which is a direct plug in replacement for my OEM module. That's nice. But it doesn't include the speed sensitive function, which is too bad.
Last edited by 0maha; Aug 18, 2017 at 03:05 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,190
Likes: 12,774
From: South Carolina
For those not familiar with load equalizers: one end of the resistor is connected to the power wire for the bulbs, the other end of the resistor goes to ground, it is just a way to make the circuit use the same amount of current as the incandescent bulbs.
But now you have two resistors that are getting as hot as the old bulbs...
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With my FLH, I've already got self-canceling. It's just that my module doesn't play nice with the new LEDs. The Badlands unit is supposed to be a direct plug in replacement (which should make putting it in a snap), but in exchange for adding LED compatibility, I am losing the "stay on forever if you aren't moving" feature of the stocker.
Guess I'll live with that.