Learn something new all the time...
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Learn something new all the time...
Been having troubles since owning this bike (a '98 FXD Super Glide) with getting the idle and mixture to tune together nicely.
I've always been able to get it to idle and the throttle work, but it was always just 'okay'. If the idle was at or even slightly over 1000 rpm's, as soon as I touched the throttle even the tiniest bit to give it gas it would give an seriously bad cough through the carb.
I'd then have to adjust the air/fuel to three turns out almost to get it to at least stop somewhat, OR I had to adjust the idle down to around 700 +/- a little, but then it would idle kind of screwy.
I could always get it to just run, but I *knew* it wasn't right. It just didn't sound right at all.
Then today, as I was sittin' on the can and reading the service manual like a book, I came upon the adjustment of the throttle and idle cables.
I've always had trouble understanding why the idle cable is so bad awful loose and why the throttle grip had about a half inch of free play before actually pulling the cable to give it gas.
So, I went out with the instructions for adjusting this bike and *WOW*!! What a difference!
Suddenly what was making it 'idle' before, was now barely letting the motor turn over rpm's (idle rpm's were so low it barely stayed running). The throttle grip now had no more play and the air/fuel adjustment actually was doing what it was supposed to do too!
I had to adjust the whole thing all over but now the bike is running like a top and fires right up without giving the starter any troubles. What an amazing thing when one doesn't realize the cables can make such a *HUGE* difference when not adjusted correctly *FOR YOUR YEAR and MODEL BIKE*.
I figured I'd throw this out there for anyone else who might be having troubles getting the bike to idle or run as nicely as it should but are able to get the bike to do so but with troubles. Check your idle and throttle cable adjustments and you'll get it right.
I've always been able to get it to idle and the throttle work, but it was always just 'okay'. If the idle was at or even slightly over 1000 rpm's, as soon as I touched the throttle even the tiniest bit to give it gas it would give an seriously bad cough through the carb.
I'd then have to adjust the air/fuel to three turns out almost to get it to at least stop somewhat, OR I had to adjust the idle down to around 700 +/- a little, but then it would idle kind of screwy.
I could always get it to just run, but I *knew* it wasn't right. It just didn't sound right at all.
Then today, as I was sittin' on the can and reading the service manual like a book, I came upon the adjustment of the throttle and idle cables.
I've always had trouble understanding why the idle cable is so bad awful loose and why the throttle grip had about a half inch of free play before actually pulling the cable to give it gas.
So, I went out with the instructions for adjusting this bike and *WOW*!! What a difference!
Suddenly what was making it 'idle' before, was now barely letting the motor turn over rpm's (idle rpm's were so low it barely stayed running). The throttle grip now had no more play and the air/fuel adjustment actually was doing what it was supposed to do too!
I had to adjust the whole thing all over but now the bike is running like a top and fires right up without giving the starter any troubles. What an amazing thing when one doesn't realize the cables can make such a *HUGE* difference when not adjusted correctly *FOR YOUR YEAR and MODEL BIKE*.
I figured I'd throw this out there for anyone else who might be having troubles getting the bike to idle or run as nicely as it should but are able to get the bike to do so but with troubles. Check your idle and throttle cable adjustments and you'll get it right.
Last edited by tar_snake; 08-23-2017 at 01:46 PM.
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tar_snake (08-23-2017)
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