Finally got tired of adjusting in perpetuality the throttle and idle cables. Every time I would, the adjustment would last maybe 50 miles and then the poor bike would be back to idling strangely. Part of the problem I am absolutely positive about is, the idle cable - no matter how it's adjusted, at the carb it has about a half an inch of loose and sloppy play to it. It isn't doing anything that I can see but is somehow screwing things up even as loose as it is.

So, I ordered some new cables (Thanks Ronnie's H-D for having 20 year old parts for my bike!!).

Anyway, got the new cables on easily enough (hint - no need to remove the tank, just raise the front as high as you can and stick a block of wood under it on top of the valve cover until you've threaded the cables back through their little plastic hoop things that are on the frame). Adjusted them, again, as per the manual, then had to guess at an idle while I had the enrichener out so it could warm up to ride it and test the cables.

Here's where I'm having some weird problems...

I have an Innova 3568a timing light that also does a tach/rpm function. Buy hooking it to the front spark plug cable if I were to adjust the idle to 1000, the very second I try to use the throttle, I get a really awful powerful cough/pow out of the carb.

If I idle it to about 750, I can ride it most of the day and it will only cough once, *maybe* twice, very lightly during a deceleration as I pull the clutch or from a stop as I give it throttle to go at the green light.

I've checked for air leaks everywhere and can find absolutely none on the bike. I've tried main jets from 50 down to currently a 46 and it makes no difference whatsoever other than anything larger than the 46 eats the gas quite a bit faster when I'm doing 70+ mph and currently have the air ration screw turned out approximately three turns (anything less and when I let off the gas to decelerate the exhaust pops an awful lot).

Could it be that the timing light is wrong using the plug wire? Can this timing light be used as a tach/rpm function and just hook it up to the negative on the coil as the book says to do with a tachometer if the bike isn't equipped with one? (If it can be used this way, do I hook the positive clip to the negative on the coil and the negative clip to a ground?)

Thanks for any suggestions with this. It's not major, but is embarrassing when it's coughing at a stop to throttle, and sure can't be good for the carb or motor, heh.

 

Take it to an experienced professional and stop guessing.

 

You really missed the main topic. Try reading it again. I 'guessed' the idle just to keep it running with the enrichener pulled out so it could warm up. I can 'guess' close to 1000 rpm's pretty well, I've usually been within 200+/- every time through the years and that includes on the twin cam I had.

Anyone else with better ideas please?

 

No, I don't think you can do that.... The inductive timing light gets the rpm signal from the plug wire pick up... Just buy yourself a decent mini tach for like $30 bucks and that problem is solved.....
As for the coughing I would think that your accelerator pump is not functioning properly. Not enough fuel at initial throttle up will cause a lean condition initially and cough through the carb... Take a better look at your accelerator pump adjustment.....

 

What carb are you running?

 

I didn't miss a thing.

 

A rebuilt and tuned (by Killer Performance) CV carb.

 

There isn't an adjustment for that on a CV...is there?

 

Then your reading comprehension skills suck along with the advice you gave.

 

My '95 had a CV on it when I got it. I didn't like the way it ran so I had it rebuilt and tuned by an expert.
Still wasn't happy with the way it ran so I pulled it off and put on an S&S E and it was like night and day.
Ever since that day I've been a believer in the E carb and I've never looked back.

I wish you luck in finding a fix for your carb but the best way I know how to fix a CV is to replace it with an E.