Front brake Heritage sticks
Banned
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,098
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From: Location location.
LOL
Yes I have tried it on the bike, hence me saying the brake sticks ;-)
There was a 4-piston caliper on it which worked fine.
Took that off, swapped it for the original and hey presto: the brake sticks.
So I took it off and had a look.
Everytime you release the brakelever the piston does retract (otherwise your brakes would simply be stuck all the time untill the pads wear down), but like I said: it seems that the startingposition of the piston is too far out if that makes sense?
The master worked fine with the 4-piston caliper so can't imagine that being the problem?
Yes I have tried it on the bike, hence me saying the brake sticks ;-)
There was a 4-piston caliper on it which worked fine.
Took that off, swapped it for the original and hey presto: the brake sticks.
So I took it off and had a look.
Everytime you release the brakelever the piston does retract (otherwise your brakes would simply be stuck all the time untill the pads wear down), but like I said: it seems that the startingposition of the piston is too far out if that makes sense?
The master worked fine with the 4-piston caliper so can't imagine that being the problem?
A wild shot here .
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 2,134
From: W. Texas
It sounds like youre installing new pads. You will have to physically push the piston back into the caliper to make room for the new pads. Since youre pushing fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir, you need to remove the cap from the fluid reservoirs when you do this. Then I can usually push the piston back by hand, but it takes some force. Failing that. You can use a c clamp.
Since this might very well be what he's doing. With the M/cyl full a on the mark. He might want to remove some of the fluid before he pushes the piston in. Dot 5 won't hurt much but still make a mess.
WP
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 9,332
Likes: 3,873
From: Upstate New York
This too. If the reservoir is full and the cap installed the piston wont go in further, as the system is hydraulic locked.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 296
Likes: 40
From: Holland
I didn't rebuild the caliper!
The brake sticks as in: it's f*cking hard to push the bike forwards because the brake is dragging way too much!
I can't push the piston back in by hand, not even by brute force...didn't have a C-clamp handy so will have to try that later.
The brake sticks as in: it's f*cking hard to push the bike forwards because the brake is dragging way too much!
I can't push the piston back in by hand, not even by brute force...didn't have a C-clamp handy so will have to try that later.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
Sounds like it's time to rebuild the caliper.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
When it comes to rebuilding the caliper you have 2 choices for parts.
Aftermarket which will run you around $15 and OEM which is about 4x more.
In your case I think I would go with the OEM one because unlike the aftermarket kits it comes with a new piston and piston lube. JMO
Aftermarket which will run you around $15 and OEM which is about 4x more.
In your case I think I would go with the OEM one because unlike the aftermarket kits it comes with a new piston and piston lube. JMO
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 9,332
Likes: 3,873
From: Upstate New York
When it comes to rebuilding the caliper you have 2 choices for parts.
Aftermarket which will run you around $15 and OEM which is about 4x more.
In your case I think I would go with the OEM one because unlike the aftermarket kits it comes with a new piston and piston lube. JMO
Aftermarket which will run you around $15 and OEM which is about 4x more.
In your case I think I would go with the OEM one because unlike the aftermarket kits it comes with a new piston and piston lube. JMO
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Banned
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,098
Likes: 474
From: Location location.
I was going to ask about fluid level too but he had the caliper on and working so I didn't !
So pray tell how did you get it all back to working did you force the thing in to place then bolt it down ?
So pray tell how did you get it all back to working did you force the thing in to place then bolt it down ?
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 296
Likes: 40
From: Holland
Had the cap off when trying to push the piston in.
Caliper looks clean as a whistle, not even brakedust!
The rubber dustseal is as new, when I push it down a bit I can see the sides of the piston and that looks shiney and clean...
Pretty much stumped as to what it can be...
I got the caliper on by sliding it on with a little force, but it drags too much so took it off...will investigate further and report back!
In the meanwhile thanks to all for thinking with me!
Caliper looks clean as a whistle, not even brakedust!
The rubber dustseal is as new, when I push it down a bit I can see the sides of the piston and that looks shiney and clean...
Pretty much stumped as to what it can be...
I got the caliper on by sliding it on with a little force, but it drags too much so took it off...will investigate further and report back!
In the meanwhile thanks to all for thinking with me!