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The cable is only a few years old and any stretching would have been adjusted out if any...
Correct on the bigger ball bearings. That's why I measured everything. They will only be .022" larger in circumference which will actually fit the ramps better. The OEM seem very small as compared to the ramps.
Theoretically because of the larger circumference it will change the position of the ball in the ramp and should have more movement in the ramps with the same amount of clutch lever movement. So with that creating a little more lever travel I'm thinking I might be able to maximize the ramp separation to it designed potential... I'll know this weekend...
Well let us know how it works as it sounds like my kinda upgrade.
Cheap!!!!!!!!!!
Wonder if you can reach in to the transmission through the fill and see if the outer ramp bit bottoms out against the circlip ring?
If it does bottom out against the circlip then a larger diameter ball would give you less throw distance than a smaller one. The stack height of the inner ramp, outer ramp, and ball would be thicker with the larger diameter ball, though you'd still need to set freeplay.
The inner and outer ramp changes part number in 2000, but the ***** remain the same. Only wild card would be the depth of the bore in the right side transmission cover, and the length of the main shaft.
Wonder if you can reach in to the transmission through the fill and see if the outer ramp bit bottoms out against the circlip ring?
If it does bottom out against the circlip then a larger diameter ball would give you less throw distance than a smaller one. The stack height of the inner ramp, outer ramp, and ball would be thicker with the larger diameter ball, though you'd still need to set freeplay.
The inner and outer ramp changes part number in 2000, but the ***** remain the same. Only wild card would be the depth of the bore in the right side transmission cover, and the length of the main shaft.
Cheers,
Zach
I can, with the clutch release cover removed from the trans visually confirm any issues before assembling and making my measurements at the clutch release plate...
Finished up the clutch today and yes it made a very nice difference. It changed the throw at the clutch release plate by .016" I now have ..084" . I still have play at the lever as well... Once I'm on the road I should see the difference... Spring is coming.... I made a video show the actual amount of disengagement..
Awesome. Look forward to hearing how it feels, bet it'll go into neutral easier with some extra throw.
Last night I got the Baker belt drive primary back on and adjusted the clutch. With the bike on the lift I put the trans in first and spun the clutch basket by hand, just to observe the rear wheel movement and when I disengaged the clutch and spun the clutch basket the rear tire just stayed there. No drag at all. I could easily spin the tire with my pinky.. So I think I should be good there. And just so you know I upgraded to a Baker OD6 w/N1 shift drum. I should never have a problem finding nuetral again..
Originally Posted by texashillcountry
Where did you order 10mm ball bearings?
I got them on Amazon. They came in a 10 Pak for 7.95. w prime 2 day shipping...
Just so you guys know I believe the reason I need more movement is because of the 11 disc clutch setup I have. On a typical 6 disc clutch setup .068" equals .011" per disc which is ok. Now put that same. 068" to 11 disc and your down to .006" per disc. Huge difference. Once I get the motor back together I'll get it out and let you know how it went.
One more thing. Do me a favor, If anyone here decides to do this to their clutch could you please do before and after measurements with a dial indicator with the readings taken at the clutch release plate and post back here..... Thanx.....
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