When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
While removing a spark plug, I was distracted for a quick second and with a ratchet, tightened the plug a good 3/4 turn before realizing it.
Now the plug wont come out. I havent turned it more than about 1 -1.5 turns, but it doesnt look or feel like its backing out. It turns, but very tight.
The plug was installed with anti seize, but its been in there for over 4 years.
Im thinking penetrating oil Like pb blaster and maybe get some upward pressure on the plug while turning, but thought Id get some input before trying anything.
Im guessing a back- tap to clean out the threads, if I can get the plug out.
I havent turned it more than about 1 -1.5 turns, but it doesnt look or feel like its backing out. It turns, but very tight.
.
Im guessing a back- tap to clean out the threads, if I can get the plug out.
That sucks and I hate creating work for myself. Finger tight and a good snug 1/4 turn after the washer seats and walk away. I never torque spark plugs or drain plugs and never hold the end of the wrench with these to avoid this issue. Hope it comes out.
Maybe try heating the head area around the plug hole. If you can get the head to expand it might help. The only way I can see penetrating oil getting in there is if you remove the head, turn it upside down and put oil around the plug from the combustion chamber side.
I'm with Ironass* on this one...heating the head will expand that area,and may offer you your best chance you don't have to get it red hot at all...but pretty hot ,*around running* temperature...
I havent turned it more than about 1 -1.5 turns, but it doesnt look or feel like its backing out. It turns, but very tight.
The plug was installed with anti seize, but its been in there for over 4 years.
Im thinking penetrating oil Like pb blaster and maybe get some upward pressure on the plug while turning, but thought Id get some input before trying anything.
Im guessing a back- tap to clean out the threads, if I can get the plug out.
Advice is appreciated!!!
One of the knuckleheads that worked on my bike, had installed the plugs and torqued them to well over 30 lb/ft. They are supposed to be around 8 lb/ft. I got them out, using my torque wrench, but it caused me a bit of concern. Re-installed to proper torque using Anti-seize. It's been 15 years, and no problems. Remember Anti-seize acts as a lubricant, and most torque specs are for dry fasteners. Adjust accordingly.
If the threads are buggered and you do decide to use a Back-Tap, put a light coat of vasoline/grease on it to catch the chips. And work slowly expanding the tap. I used one on my Ford 5.0L with aluminum heads that another knucklehead had cross-threaded the #6 spark plug. Worked great.
I used a hair dryer placed right against the head under the spark plug, to heat it up a bit. (Thanks for the tip, IronAss and 55 Pan).
Sprayed a little DeepCreep around the spark plug.
Using a pair of needle nose pliers exerting a bit of upward pressure, I slowly removed the plug. I stopped re-heated with the dryer and applied more Deep Creep several times.
It never loosened up, a tight drag all the way out.
The first thread on the plug was crushed, flattening it somewhat and broadening that thread for one whole trip around the plug. So, I was dragging that wide wale thread all the way back out.
Looking in the head there didnt appear to be any damage to the threads that are visible and only a tiny bit of grit.
I ran a well greased 14mm spark plug thread chaser through it, a very little bit of grit came out with the chaser. My magnet says its aluminum.
Plug screws in easily by hand and seats properly.
I figure if any of the grit from the aluminum made its way into the bore, it should be harmless.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.