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From what I gather he is saying, there is no such thing in their catalog as a "CE-208NB". That is just what they are going to call the non-stock regulator they are going to make for me.
After consulting one of my grandsons, that's what we think they are saying too....
After consulting one of my grandsons, that's what we think they are saying too....
I'd prefer that they would send some schematics or other detailed technical explanation for what makes a "NB" regulator different. I'd also feel better about this if I had a definitive confirmation that the reason my stock regulator died was from my faulty engineering. Maybe it just died because it died.
In any case, I'm certain it's dead, so needs replaced anyway. I figure adding the capacitor can't hurt anything, so I may add well give it a try.
You kinda need a capacitor to smooth out that ripple. And I'm fairly certain that the regulator died because it wasn't designed to run with no battery. I think that after your discussion with CE, I would be confident in running what they make for you.
You kinda need a capacitor to smooth out that ripple. And I'm fairly certain that the regulator died because it wasn't designed to run with no battery. I think that after your discussion with CE, I would be confident in running what they make for you.
From a quick internet lesson on BEC (battery eliminator circuits), a lot of the chatter is about bikes with generators, not alternators. It seems (as CE pointed out), that the VR on an alternator system, needs resident voltage to 'work'. And I'll have to take their word on that, as I have no clue. Having no battery (or other source of resident voltage), may have caused the early demise of an OEM VR.
I would ask CE if the CE-208NB has internal capacitor, thus eliminating the need for one in your last drawing.
Quick question, from the get go..... Was this an issue? Or did it work for a while then go south at higher RPM's. Have you tried a battery just to see what happens...?
Quick question, from the get go..... Was this an issue? Or did it work for a while then go south at higher RPM's. Have you tried a battery just to see what happens...?
I'm still in "gathering opinions" mode, but I think I'm good sticking with what CE is recommending. I'm yet to find someone who has said "I did the exact same thing and here's what worked".
Why are you guys so bound and determined to talk me into mounting a battery? I can see a clear disadvantage (having to have some sort of on-off switch), but what's the advantage? I feel like I'm missing something.
Edit: To answer your question, I can't really say if it was working 100% initially, but I think it was. I do know that after a period of time the dimming at speed problem got progressively worse, until it finally more or less died.
Not trying to push you into anything. Just a process of elimination is all... Have you done an AC rest on the alternator. 1000 RPM = 16-20 vac and 2000 RPM= 32-40vac.. just to confirm proper operation....
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Oct 9, 2018 at 11:07 AM.
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