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Old Oct 7, 2018 | 06:29 PM
  #11  
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Should be a good runner... Did you go with his W6 build?
 
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Old Oct 7, 2018 | 06:58 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by carlgrover
Well, a few months ago I posted that I thought I'd blown up my bike. I ripped out my motor and sent it off to Hillside Cycles for a rebuild (it had a broken piston). Got everything buttoned back up and went for my first ride this morning. What a difference! Nice and tight, sounds better too. Sure feels good to be riding again.
carl
Glad you got up and running. BTW, what is a rebuild going for these days?
 
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Old Oct 7, 2018 | 08:47 PM
  #13  
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Congrats! Glad it all worked out.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2018 | 07:02 AM
  #14  
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I told them all I wanted is bone stock reliability. I don't care about speed. I'm from Tennessee and we just don't do things very fast in my County. Hillside charged me around $3,300 for the job. Total cost depends on the damage though so it could be more for different situations. They told me it wouldn't be more than $4,000 at the worst though and I would have been happy to pay that. Keep in mind you have to pay to get the motor too them. That's roughly $250 each way with an LTL shipper. I went with Old Dominion on the way up and it shipped back Averitt express. You can save money buy dropping off and picking up at the freight terminal. You don't want an 18 wheeler dropping it off at your house. That'll run you an additional $200 including lift gate fees.

Special tools cost me another $300 for the primary and the hoist was about $250.

carl
 
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Old Oct 8, 2018 | 07:24 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by carlgrover
I told them all I wanted is bone stock reliability. I don't care about speed. I'm from Tennessee and we just don't do things very fast in my County. Hillside charged me around $3,300 for the job. Total cost depends on the damage though so it could be more for different situations. They told me it wouldn't be more than $4,000 at the worst though and I would have been happy to pay that. Keep in mind you have to pay to get the motor too them. That's roughly $250 each way with an LTL shipper. I went with Old Dominion on the way up and it shipped back Averitt express. You can save money buy dropping off and picking up at the freight terminal. You don't want an 18 wheeler dropping it off at your house. That'll run you an additional $200 including lift gate fees.

Special tools cost me another $300 for the primary and the hoist was about $250.

carl
Two large sockets and a piece of bar stock doesn't cost $300.
What special tools did you buy???

And yeah it's a great feeling when you get to ride your bike again after it's been down for a while!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Old Oct 8, 2018 | 09:29 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
And yeah it's a great feeling when you get to ride your bike again after it's been down for a while!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Especially if you just dropped a S&S V111 in it.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2018 | 03:50 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Beemervet
Especially if you just dropped a S&S V111 in it.
Doesn't matter what you drop into it as long as your riding again.. I know the feeling.. Ride On brother..... 10 in a row.... new record..
 
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Old Oct 9, 2018 | 07:00 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
Two large sockets and a piece of bar stock doesn't cost $300.
What special tools did you buy???

And yeah it's a great feeling when you get to ride your bike again after it's been down for a while!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I bought all the seal drivers for the transmission and inner primary, the lock for the primary chain, the clutch lock, and the removal/installation tool for the inner primary bearing race. They were all very handy. If I had to do it all over again, I would do the same thing except for maybe the primary chain lock. I could have made one but my shop is not set up for metal working.

carl
 
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Old Oct 9, 2018 | 07:37 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by carlgrover
I bought all the seal drivers for the transmission and inner primary, the lock for the primary chain, the clutch lock, and the removal/installation tool for the inner primary bearing race. They were all very handy. If I had to do it all over again, I would do the same thing except for maybe the primary chain lock. I could have made one but my shop is not set up for metal working.

carl
Man you just must like spending money..
I use a socket for all my seals, I find one just smaller than the outer diameter of the seal and use it and an extension to tap the seal in.
I gotta agree with the IPB race removal tool but instead of putting another one on there I use Bakers IPB which does away with that race.
My primary chain locking tool is a piece of 3/16ths inch bar stock that I bought at Home Depot and cut to length.
It works better than the official one I bought as a curiosity.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 06:15 AM
  #20  
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I figure with the seal installation tools I bought they are all in square and to the correct depth. I didn't want to get one in there too deep or shallow and also skewed a little which could start an oil leak and cause me to take the primary apart again. Plus, if I wanted to I could sell them all and get probably at least half my money back.

carl
 
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