You can probably pick one up at Buds 512-472-8658.
They're out on 812 near the race track.

I haven't tried pizza from there as I heard it was kinda pricey and I'm cheap when it comes to food.

Now for other things that will help that bike if it doesn't already have it are
1) non vacuum operated petcock
Pingel or Golan are probably the best but not cheap.
2) Dynatek (i or p), or Twin Tec ignition module.
Either of those will make cold starts way easier
3) I've found these very helpful for removing the tanks without having to drain them
You'll have to reroute your crossover line to the outside of the down tubes but it makes life much easier after you get it into place!!!

I get the best prices on aftermarket parts at Antler Creek Cycle Leather 512-441-2427

You did get a front fender with the bike didn't you????

 

Spattt... that's a great bit of info. Thanks for looking it up.
​​​​texashillcountry, I know I'm in for redoing the ignition. The dash switch has to be "wiggled" into operation. So that's getting replaced. Cold starts are rough also because the choke cable is shot and you have to hold it the whole time it warms up. I haven't even considered the petcock yet. What does replacing it gain you?
And yes, I got the matching front fender. Also the guy says that there's the original tank and fenders that they removed for the blue set. I'm hoping to get a hold of those too.

 

 

Take a close look at your choke cable as it has a friction device on it, just behind the ****, and you may simply have to adjust it so you no longer have to hold it open. Most of us have been there!

 

As for the cold starts if you install a Dynatek 2000p then all you have to do is pull the choke hit the start button then let the choke back in and set the throttle lock to hold rpms up til the bike warms up.
As for the petcock if you replace it with one of my recommendations it gives you a better fuel flow, easier operation, and a simpler design with fewer possible points of failure.

 

Ok.
I pulled and cleaned the dash switch. So far that seems to have improved it so... sweet!

I took a closer look at the choke cable and the plastic threaded fittings is what is broken. So it can't hold tension. I might try some epoxy or super glue... but I'm pretty much resigned to replacing it.

I looked up the ignition module and it's now on the list. Not immediate. But it's something I want to do. The petcock I will likely put on the back burner for now unless it starts to give me problems.

I know it sounds like a lot of problems but I will likely get it on the road by the weekend. Hopefully.

 

That's the right thing to do. The plastic is not the sort that will readily take to a glue of any sort IMHO.

 

Good job on the ignition switch as those damn things are like $100 from the dealer!

As for the choke cable IIRC they are cheap and that plastic nut is commonly what breaks.
When you replace it just finger tight will work don't put a wrench on it.

 

Absolutely. Not everything needs loctite and a torque wrench.