87 FXSTC timing question
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Dirt don't hurt
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From: Haslet Texas
87 FXSTC timing question
When I'm looking at the flywheel on this bike I see a single line, small dot up high in the hole and a larger dot towards the bottom of the hole.
Which one am I supposed to use?
Is there anyway to check the VOES without a vacuum pump?
Which one am I supposed to use?
Is there anyway to check the VOES without a vacuum pump?
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Brighton, MI
Cant help you on the flywheel marks, but the voes can be checked using a meter connected to the two voes terminals and apply some suction to the voes. You will hear it click and you will see the ohm meter go from infinity to continuity. You will not know at what vacuum level it switches at (clicks) but it is a down and dirty to see if it "should be working". YD
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From: Poolville
The line is front TDC. With the motor warm at idle, take a pair of needle nose pliers and pinch off the vacuum line to the VOES and remove it from the VOES ( not the carb) The idle should drop. Again while idling Reinstall the vacuum hose to the VOES, the idle should go up... It should be like a 150-200 RPM difference at idle.
Thread Starter
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Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Haslet Texas
The line is front TDC. With the motor warm at idle, take a pair of needle nose pliers and pinch off the vacuum line to the VOES and remove it from the VOES ( not the carb) The idle should drop. Again while idling Reinstall the vacuum hose to the VOES, the idle should go up... It should be like a 150-200 RPM difference at idle.
Why would it matter which side you took the vacuum line loose from?
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From: Poolville
The dot towards the top of the wheel is the advanced mark with voes grounded.... the reason I said remove the vacuum hose at the VOES if because if you take it off the carb it will give you a vacuum leak and a false indication that the voes switched. Or you can cut one of the wires to the VOES which will break the ground and the timing will retard and the idle will go down.. hook it back up and the idle should go back up, that is if the VOES is working properly....
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Dirt don't hurt
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From: Haslet Texas
The dot towards the top of the wheel is the advanced mark with voes grounded.... the reason I said remove the vacuum hose at the VOES if because if you take it off the carb it will give you a vacuum leak and a false indication that the voes switched. Or you can cut one of the wires to the VOES which will break the ground and the timing will retard and the idle will go down.. hook it back up and the idle should go back up, that is if the VOES is working properly....
The line is 4 inches long and unless I pinch off the hose at the carb before removing it at the voes I still see a vacuum leak happening at the carb.
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From: Poolville
How's that if it's pinched off??????
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Thread Starter
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Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
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Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
The line is front TDC. With the motor warm at idle, take a pair of needle nose pliers and pinch off the vacuum line to the VOES and remove it from the VOES ( not the carb) The idle should drop. Again while idling Reinstall the vacuum hose to the VOES, the idle should go up... It should be like a 150-200 RPM difference at idle.
You already told me to pinch it off and for some reason I didn't see that the first time I read you post....
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Dirt don't hurt
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From: Haslet Texas
I have installed a Dynatek 2ki and the bike will start but when you rev it up black smoke comes out the pipes and the plugs foul out.
All I've been able to do is static time it.
The carb is a CV with 45 and 190 jets.
I did ground out the VOES wire to see if that made a difference...it didn't.
Tried different plug wires..no help.
Anybody got any other suggestions?
All I've been able to do is static time it.
The carb is a CV with 45 and 190 jets.
I did ground out the VOES wire to see if that made a difference...it didn't.
Tried different plug wires..no help.
Anybody got any other suggestions?