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Guys, I'm using my super expensive HF bike jack for this operation. Already loosened the four engine mounting bolts, and a few oil lines away from pulling my motor. I think I can pull the motor with the bike on it's kickstand, but if I jack it up to get it leveled, will there be any weight distribution problems when I pull the motor. I was thinking about taking off the tour pack and strapping down the bike if I jack it up. I know it goes out/in from the right side. Any other recommendations for pulling/putting engine back in using this type of jack. One man job here.
I did have an "accident" just like you described. Mine fell forward but the two frame rails stayed parallel to the jack and it ended up half on/half off. There was no stopping it once it went.
Ty downs work- but they always seem to be in the way.
After i jack it up- and i know im going to be wrestling around with her a bit- i will put a jack or milk crates or 2x4s under the tires on each end. Prevents it from sliding forward or backward.
I did have an "accident" just like you described. Mine fell forward but the two frame rails stayed parallel to the jack and it ended up half on/half off. There was no stopping it once it went.
Ty downs work- but they always seem to be in the way.
After i jack it up- and i know i'm going to be wrestling around with her a bit- i will put a jack or milk crates or 2x4s under the tires on each end. Prevents it from sliding forward or backward.
I drop mine down so that the bike is touching front/rear tires on the ground.
Just my .02 - undo the front motor mount bolt - put a 2x4 between the bottom of the crank and the jack to provide support - undo top link last and pop out the bolt when you are ready to catch the motor and pull it out. Can put pieces of wood between the frame and motor to prevent it falling forward. I have managed to get a whole 2x4 through the space on the bottom of the frame with all the links disconnected but leaving it connected to the trans - meaning you could theoretically put 2 or 3 under there and then disconnect it from the trans.
Buy a cheap cherry picker/engine lift. I see them every day on craigslist. Bolt a flat steel plate to the oil transfer lines (the banjo bolt lines). Bolt the cherry picker to the plate and with the engine on it's tires, gently lift. You can jockey it around easily and make very minute adjustments. Then when it's high enough, just pull the cherry picker back and out she comes. That's how I did it.
Thanks for the replies guys. I went with the milk crate method, and it worked great. Very sturdy, so much, I forgot to strap the bike down. Had to jack the lift up highest, slip in the milk crates, and then release pressure to rest onto jack's locking mechanism. Here's a pic. I'm going to replace all the oil lines and flush the oil tank, since I'm putting in a fresh engine. This old bike needs new lines anyway.
When in that far make sure your belt and sprockets/pulleys are good. It’s a good time to replace them.
Thanks. I replaced those two years ago. Still doing great. You can see in the 1st pic, I don't have the locking plate on the old '89, so I put in another bolt. It was been working fine. Not going to fix it if it ain't broke.
You can see in the 1st pic, I don't have the locking plate on the old '89, so I put in another bolt. It was been working fine. Not going to fix it if it ain't broke.
If that nut starts to back off, it will shear those bolt heads off easily, that`s one or the reasons for the newer pulley configuration.
I would consider that old `89 pulley configuration "Broke".
I can shoot you a parts list for the upgraded setup if you would like.
Tell us about the new powerplant you are installing.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; May 22, 2019 at 05:00 PM.