Dyno Report
I just came back from having my bike, a 1991 Electra Glide Ultra Classic, dyno'd by the visiting "Dr. Dyno" (www.drdyno.com) at Augusta North Country Harley Davidson in Augusta, Maine. It has a Screaming Eagle SE-1 cam, SE module and coil, S&S Super E carb & air cleaner, and baffled, turn-out, slip-on mufflers of unknown make and model (they're quite loud), and is otherwise stock. It made a best run of 66.69 hp and 77.51 ft/lbs torque. The only necessary changes were to swap the #72main jet to a #68 and advance the timing 2 degrees from factory spec.
The SE-1 cam isn't ideal for my type of riding, which is often two-up, and I don't get a kick out of revving my bike to 6500+ RPM's, which I can do with this cam. It seems to come on at 4000 RPM's and continue past 6500. High gear roll-ons don't amount to all that much until I reach 3500-4000 RPM's. At 60 MPH in high gear, the tach reads about 2800. So, as you can see, this isn't an ideal cruising cam by any means, but lots of fun when you feel the urge to make a lot of noise going up through the gears. But don't get me wrong, the bike still chugs adequately and is a blast to ride, it just isn't optimal.
Dr. Dyno's favorite cam for these bikes is the Crane Fireball 310, which is for all practicalpurposes identicalto the Andrews EV-27 and also very close to the SE-3. He says all of these cams are relatively easy on the valvetrain, but he likes this specific Crane cam the best by a small margin. It surprised me when he told me that if I changed to the Crane cam, I probably wouldn't need to re-jet.
He is OK with the S&S Super E carb, he feels the only downside is it isn't altitude compensating, otherwise fine.My impression was that he'd keep the original CV's on stock displacement bikes and simply tune them appropriately to the individual bike andequipment. When I was working at a Harley dealer ship (the one mentioned) I heard this same advice on CV's many times. I bought my bike as-is or I would have done just that.
My bike was set-up pretty close so I didn't see much difference between the first and best run. What I did notice was how much crisper and sharper it ran.The baseline dyno run/diagnostic cost $100, the tuning was an aditional $110. My bike was on the dyno roughly an hour. No, that's not cheap. I did get a zillion questions answered,I KNOW that my bike is right, and my guessing about what might have been done wrong before I got the bikeis over. Ahhhhhh.
I've read quite a bit about cams, carbs, exhaust, and air intakes in the forum, so I am hoping that this report will have value to some of you. Happy Trails!
Scott
When it comes time, swap out the cam to the EV27 or the Crane 310, you can leave the rest untouched.I've got the EV27 in my 93 FLHS and absolutely love it.I do agree with the comments on the CV carb for a stock displacement bike. The S&S has a bit more 'tuneability', but it won't compensate for altitude changes.
The temp was 72.91 F, humidity was 41%. Do you have any dyno numbers on your bike? The dyno guy said that he would figure 70 hp and 80 ft/lbs torque with the C-310 or EV-27. I don't quite understand why I would get more power with these cams and I wish I had asked. I would have thought the SE-1 would have had the power edge. Perhaps the only difference between the two types of cam is that the SE-1 would provide more top speed, since it's power comes in at higher revs, better able to pullhigh gear.On the interstate at 80-85 mph cruise, it still has very good acceleration. Thanks for your interest.
Scott
One onthis configuration: SE air cleaner, SuperTrapps, Dyna2000, and EV27 cam. 72.8hp/83.7tq taken on 10/12/02 Nothing done other than 'tune' the CV carb.
Withthe above mods, top end rebuild, and street ported heads:75.1hp/80.68 tq taken at 74.4* and 66% humidity barometer 29.23
Without air cleaner it put out: 76.92hp/82.65tq
Both abovetaken on 09/12/06 following a 1500 mile break-in after the top end rebuild.
I picked up a 'bit' of horsepower with only a 'bit' of torque loss. I can only assume that is due to the ported heads, however, the bike was still 'tight' from the rebuild. I'll probably get it dyno'd again next year as I haven't putmany miles on it this year.
As I'veposted before, I'm a firm believer in the power of a good dyno tune. Find a shop that has one, and has someone that knows how to use it to tune your particular bike...You'll be smiling from ear to ear.




