Fxr swing arm
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,120
Likes: 192
From: Lakeland, FL
Fxr swing arm
I think Ive tracked my handling issues to my swing arm. I Have a factory manual (94 fxlr), but its not very clear on the process. It looks to me like I can remove the back wheel, support the transmission and remove the isolators and then the pivot shaft. Does that sound right? Can I replace the rubber isolators without removing the entire swing arm? This is a low miles bike. Im pretty sure my isolators are shot, but I dont see any reason to replace the Cleve blocks if theyre ok.
Feels like you're working hard to avoid removing the swingarm, but honestly, once you've got the wheel off and the pivot shaft out, you're only two shock bolts away from it being free anyway.
My $0.02 is to pull it out, and give it (and the back of the trans case) a good de-gunking while you're at it.
If you have a pair of motorcycle scissors jacks, you can do this without pulling the rear wheel. Put one jack toward the front of the frame to square up the bike, then put a block on the other and use it to push up on the bottom of the trans just enough to get the weight off the isolators. Both wheels still on the ground. When you tap out the pivot shaft, use a big, looooong phillips head screwdriver, and make sure it extends into the hole on the trans case. That will keep the swingarm from moving when you fully remove the pivot shaft.
Pay attention to the condition of your pivot shaft. It might come right out. Or it might be hopelessly corroded in place. If it goes hard, be careful what you use to tap it out. Don't want to mushroom over the end.
My $0.02 is to pull it out, and give it (and the back of the trans case) a good de-gunking while you're at it.
If you have a pair of motorcycle scissors jacks, you can do this without pulling the rear wheel. Put one jack toward the front of the frame to square up the bike, then put a block on the other and use it to push up on the bottom of the trans just enough to get the weight off the isolators. Both wheels still on the ground. When you tap out the pivot shaft, use a big, looooong phillips head screwdriver, and make sure it extends into the hole on the trans case. That will keep the swingarm from moving when you fully remove the pivot shaft.
Pay attention to the condition of your pivot shaft. It might come right out. Or it might be hopelessly corroded in place. If it goes hard, be careful what you use to tap it out. Don't want to mushroom over the end.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,120
Likes: 192
From: Lakeland, FL
Feels like you're working hard to avoid removing the swingarm, but honestly, once you've got the wheel off and the pivot shaft out, you're only two shock bolts away from it being free anyway.
My $0.02 is to pull it out, and give it (and the back of the trans case) a good de-gunking while you're at it.
If you have a pair of motorcycle scissors jacks, you can do this without pulling the rear wheel. Put one jack toward the front of the frame to square up the bike, then put a block on the other and use it to push up on the bottom of the trans just enough to get the weight off the isolators. Both wheels still on the ground. When you tap out the pivot shaft, use a big, looooong phillips head screwdriver, and make sure it extends into the hole on the trans case. That will keep the swingarm from moving when you fully remove the pivot shaft.
Pay attention to the condition of your pivot shaft. It might come right out. Or it might be hopelessly corroded in place. If it goes hard, be careful what you use to tap it out. Don't want to mushroom over the end.
My $0.02 is to pull it out, and give it (and the back of the trans case) a good de-gunking while you're at it.
If you have a pair of motorcycle scissors jacks, you can do this without pulling the rear wheel. Put one jack toward the front of the frame to square up the bike, then put a block on the other and use it to push up on the bottom of the trans just enough to get the weight off the isolators. Both wheels still on the ground. When you tap out the pivot shaft, use a big, looooong phillips head screwdriver, and make sure it extends into the hole on the trans case. That will keep the swingarm from moving when you fully remove the pivot shaft.
Pay attention to the condition of your pivot shaft. It might come right out. Or it might be hopelessly corroded in place. If it goes hard, be careful what you use to tap it out. Don't want to mushroom over the end.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
The worst part of our rear suspension system is actually the cleve blocks! When doing any work in that vicinity I really encourage you to replace the darned things with a modern successor. There are various brands available, including solid metal or plastic bushings, also spherical bushings similar to the later rubber mount bikes.
Cleve blocks are actually anti-vibration mounts and not particularly well suited to their use as s/w bushings IMHO. They are of composite construction and can shear internally, which rather wrecks them!
As for your question, you need to support your bike in the upright position under the frame, then use a suitable jack to support the weight of the engine/trans (under the trans). Slacken all fasteners while the bike is safe on terra firma first and before actually dismantling things. And DO replace those cleve blocks - please nicely! We'll be lookin' over ya shoulder....
Cleve blocks are actually anti-vibration mounts and not particularly well suited to their use as s/w bushings IMHO. They are of composite construction and can shear internally, which rather wrecks them!
As for your question, you need to support your bike in the upright position under the frame, then use a suitable jack to support the weight of the engine/trans (under the trans). Slacken all fasteners while the bike is safe on terra firma first and before actually dismantling things. And DO replace those cleve blocks - please nicely! We'll be lookin' over ya shoulder....
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,120
Likes: 192
From: Lakeland, FL
I got it apart. The isolators look bad, but the cleve blocks look good as new. Even the pivot shaft just slid right out. I think I'll leave the cleave blocks as is for now. I've seen the swing arm upgrades. I kind of regret not getting the CCE kit, but I may do that later on, especially considering how easy a job this turned out to be. I do have one question. Does it matter if the pin/hole on the isolators go on top or bottom?
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I got it apart. The isolators look bad, but the cleve blocks look good as new. Even the pivot shaft just slid right out. I think I'll leave the cleave blocks as is for now. I've seen the swing arm upgrades. I kind of regret not getting the CCE kit, but I may do that later on, especially considering how easy a job this turned out to be. I do have one question. Does it matter if the pin/hole on the isolators go on top or bottom?
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Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,120
Likes: 192
From: Lakeland, FL
Got it. I was curious if it mattered which way was up. The service manual had a picture with the pins on top, so that's the way I reinstalled them. The bike is back together.Overall, id say that was not a bad job. I had to replace the base gaskets last week. That was far worse.
anyway, I took a short ride, and it seems better. There's a bit more vibration, but not bad. It no longer streers when I use the rear brake, so that's nice. Thanks for the help!
anyway, I took a short ride, and it seems better. There's a bit more vibration, but not bad. It no longer streers when I use the rear brake, so that's nice. Thanks for the help!