I got mixed up on which bike the OP was working on / looking at, so the dates on paragraph 2 are confusing but the info still applies.....

 

Wanted to circle around and provide an update. Owner confirmed that he has the SE-1 cam installed, with a Torrington bearing, SE Ignition Module, and SE Intake. Original push rods and lifters. Bike now has a little under 21,000 mi. on it with about 16-17k on the performance upgrades, so it has been running most of its life with the upgrades. So, a couple more questions. How long are the Torrington bearings good for? Also, I would be looking to swap in new lifters. Should I replace push rods with adjustables? Which brand lifters work well with SE cam, S&S, Woods, etc? There was a comment above about SE-1 cams steel flaking off on the bearing side. Has anyone else experienced this, and should I look to replace cam when doing lifters? All feedback/comments welcome. Thanks ahead of time.

 

So I think I'm settled on s&s quickies and either the reworked Johnson hylift by AMS or the s&s tappets. I'd really like to get more feedback on these se1 cams and if there are any quality control issues that cropped up on a somewhat regular basis.

 

Keep in mind, this is just my experience with them. Also, it's too easy to assume that a failure one bike has, is a certain failure on any similar bike. That is seldom the case. Sure, there are a few inherent problems among certain year models or all models, but they are few. And I may be the only one in the world who ever had an SE1 go bad, who knows

My bike was 1.5 years old with about 12.5k miles and the dealer had installed the SE1 for the original owner. I pulled it out about 46K and it was shot as well as the bearing (B138). I bought a new one, discounted at a dealer, changed the bearing and pulled it about 15K later. Bearing good, hard surface flaking. Bought a used one, thinking it was "tried and true" and ran it about 20k. The bearing was still good but the cam flaking. After that, I went thru a couple summers swapping cams, lifters and push rods about every 5k, experimenting to find something that suited me. I changed at least 6 cams over that time and only changed the bearing one time - no issues. Once settled on one I liked, new bearing that I ran till I split the cases some years ago. Long and short, the B-138 is as dependable as it gets.

Most regulars here know I generally avoid opinion responses but here goes... I've run several brands of lifters over the years and for my money, the OEM 18523-86B is as good as anything out there. Any fully adjustable push rod can, and most often will, lend itself to increased valve train noise. Makes it super easy to do a cam swap though. So far as "which cam" I will only say, the SE1 is sick in a hard pull, heavy and loaded but good over 3500rpm. For a "basically" stock bike - you need lift for low rpm power and duration for high rpms. I've zero experience with S&S carbs, but a CV will not let you over throttle it by design which is good for heavy/pulling/mountain riding and once dialed in, will get you as good fuel mileage and as much power as anything I know of.

Anything(s) you do concerning carb, cam, compression, back pressure has an overlapping effect on everything else and in the end, a compromise of power and mileage that suits you and your bike/riding style is the only thing that really matters

 

Thank you for your perspective and experience. As the lifters have over 20k I want to change them and so will do the pushers at the same time. The application will be a 1996 heritage Softail solo rider, so not heavy. I have been unable to find any other failures out there of se1 cams, but a fair number of guys pulling them out in favor of something else that fits their riding style. I may eventually go with the W6 as I have experience with that cam and like it. I will take your advice on lifters into consideration, thanks. Appreciate the help.

 

Unfortunately those Evo "B" lifters look to be obsolete and only available as an after market reproduction or used. Oh well.

 

I think you can get the OEM Evo lifters from the dealer. They still show as available on the Ronnies microfiche parts page.

18523-86B

But the current price for OEM Evo lifters is equal to a set of S&S Premium lifters.

The best lifter deal in town for quality lifters is Johnson HY Lift from WFO Larry (Larry`s Motorcycle Machine).

 

You never once stated if these were giving you an issue or not. Is the motor loud, noisy? Is it giving you problems? If it's all running good I would just leave it alone and you don't really need adjustable pushrods I've seen people that don't have the most knowledge with building Harley motors end up popping valves and pistons because they don't know how to adjust adjustable pushrods properly. So if you're not having any problems, honestly I would just leave it alone and enjoy it

 

Or in other words "If it ain't broke don't fix it".

 

I understand these comments, but I was under the impression that there were service bulletins and recommendations to at least check if not change lifters by 25,000 miles. I actually don't own the bike yet, but I am very close to pulling the trigger. I really don't want to create work/expense for myself but thought that lifters were something that needed to be attended to, and the only way to change them without taking the rocker covers off was to use quickie adjustables.