1990 Heritage Front Jug Leak
Cruiser
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 231
Likes: 450
From: SW Florida
I recall using the Hayden oil fix many years ago when I developed a base gasket leak on my rear cylinder. It was just two small brass ferrules that dropped in and sat between the cases and the cylinders. No doubt new gaskets along with ensuring the cylinder flanges were flat would have worked fine. I skipped the flatness check and the Hayden fix worked for me. I wonder if it's still available?
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 83
Likes: 7
From: Uppsala, Sweden
OK. But isn't there a risk that problems develop if you remove the piston and put it back without replacing the rings (and hone)?
Last edited by JensWest; Jun 4, 2020 at 02:54 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 942
Likes: 323
From: Grew up in Texas, moved to AZ
The OP has probably assembled the top end together already. Generally, it is advised that each time the cylinder is pulled off the pistons, the minimum would be a de-glazing of the cylinder and new rings if all is within spec, and then follow break-in procedure for rings to seat. I don't know if the old parts will be able to seat correctly again, and have no experience with that. I know that without proper ring seating, you will get blowby (loss of compression) and oil consumption; therefore, poor performance.
What are the chances that the rings will not seat correctly again in the real world? Will the OP develop these problems? Maybe he will let us know.
What are the chances that the rings will not seat correctly again in the real world? Will the OP develop these problems? Maybe he will let us know.
Last edited by daven9113; Jun 4, 2020 at 04:24 PM.
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 83
Likes: 7
From: Uppsala, Sweden
The OP has probably assembled the top end together already. Generally, it is advised that each time the cylinder is pulled off the pistons, the minimum would be a de-glazing of the cylinder and new rings if all is within spec, and then follow break-in procedure for rings to seat. I don't know if the old parts will be able to seat correctly again, and have no experience with that. I know that without proper ring seating, you will get blowby (loss of compression) and oil consumption; therefore, poor performance.
What are the chances that the rings will not seat correctly again in the real world? Will the OP develop these problems? Maybe he will let us know.
What are the chances that the rings will not seat correctly again in the real world? Will the OP develop these problems? Maybe he will let us know.
I'm asking because I have a -92 Softail (30 k miles) that has a small base gasket leak (from when I bought it) and doesn't burn oil or anything. So I'm looking at replacing some gaskets and it would have been easier if I could have removed the piston and just put it back in (assuming piston and rings are OK).
But my understanding was that if I would remove the piston, it would atleast involve honing and new rings.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 942
Likes: 323
From: Grew up in Texas, moved to AZ
OK. Thank you.
I'm asking because I have a -92 Softail (30 k miles) that has a small base gasket leak (from when I bought it) and doesn't burn oil or anything. So I'm looking at replacing some gaskets and it would have been easier if I could have removed the piston and just put it back in (assuming piston and rings are OK).
But my understanding was that if I would remove the piston, it would atleast involve honing and new rings.
I'm asking because I have a -92 Softail (30 k miles) that has a small base gasket leak (from when I bought it) and doesn't burn oil or anything. So I'm looking at replacing some gaskets and it would have been easier if I could have removed the piston and just put it back in (assuming piston and rings are OK).
But my understanding was that if I would remove the piston, it would atleast involve honing and new rings.
Now, there are several ways to address future base gasket leaks, from using a better gasket, Hayden oil fix, Pigtail, trueing the base of the cylinder, etc... Choose your method depending on your preference. I personally would choose the Hayden, since it's cheap, easy, and works. Follow correct procedures for installation of the top end; warming up your bike before rides, and should be good for a long time. Good luck.
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Advanced
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 83
Likes: 7
From: Uppsala, Sweden
No problem. You have two options really. If you can get an extra hand to help, or if you are real good, you can pull the cylinders up to expose the piston pin. Then you can remove the pin, and pull your cylinder with piston still in them. You will have to be careful with taking out and putting the wrist pin clip back (use new ones). With this method, you won't need new rings and honing of any sort, as you've stated your bike is in good running condition. The other method would be what I mentioned above.
Now, there are several ways to address future base gasket leaks, from using a better gasket, Hayden oil fix, Pigtail, trueing the base of the cylinder, etc... Choose your method depending on your preference. I personally would choose the Hayden, since it's cheap, easy, and works. Follow correct procedures for installation of the top end; warming up your bike before rides, and should be good for a long time. Good luck.
Now, there are several ways to address future base gasket leaks, from using a better gasket, Hayden oil fix, Pigtail, trueing the base of the cylinder, etc... Choose your method depending on your preference. I personally would choose the Hayden, since it's cheap, easy, and works. Follow correct procedures for installation of the top end; warming up your bike before rides, and should be good for a long time. Good luck.
So a new gasket and to make sure to warm the bike up before taking off won't necessarily resolve the problem?
Once the leak has developed, something more is needed?
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 942
Likes: 323
From: Grew up in Texas, moved to AZ
I can only speak for my own experience. When I did my base gasket fix, and that was only putting in a new gasket, it lasted for 10 years before I started seeing oil seepage, so a new gasket and warm up procedure can get you by for a long time, but it's not permanent. The cylinders change and get out of round. There's also a lot of pressure build up in the bottom end, and the base gasket is a point of failure, even if your bike has no breathing issue. It's a design failure that was fixed with the Twin Cam. Again, if it was my bike, I'd use the Hayden oil fix.
Last edited by daven9113; Jun 5, 2020 at 09:53 AM.