1996 Road King Evo (carb) - Purchase Help!?
Ive had lots of bikes over the past 25 years, but never a Harley. Looking for advice on what I should be looking out for, any common issues with this model of bike, and any other relevant or helpful info you may be able to arm me with on this particular model before I make a decision!
Thank you all in advance for any advice & assistance you may have! Really appreciate it!
Dan
This is the bike Im considering trading for.
Last edited by Dan Osborne; May 28, 2020 at 09:14 PM. Reason: Adding a photo.
I've got a 94. 40-44 mpg, if it doesn't have a big jet kit and thunder slide in it.
Neat age range, as you can take some parts going back to 89 and all the way up to 2006 for quite a lot of the other hardware.
94-96 share the same frame, which means that some parts: the saddle, rear saddle bag guards, and license plate mount are all 2 year parts... The battery on them are smaller than the later model bikes, so keep a fresh one in her. Harley shop doesn't normally stock one that size, but Autozone and Batterys Plus do. The frame is narrower, and battery box is not as deep as the rest of the harley batteries.
96 has upgraded switch gear on the handlebars is the late model, first year for those.
Stock cam has no valve overlap, so they are a bit anemic. Andrews EV13 or EV27 are two that work well, and may well already have one in it. The inner cam bearing gets a bad rap, but at the same time if it hasn't gone yet, it probably won't. The stock lifters have a bulletin out for 25k to be checked on. But, if she sounds like an angry sewing machine, without any tapping they ought to be happy.
The clutch should still be the old style, which takes a puller tool to take apart. The 1998 up style is a decent upgrade if you ever get in there, and the hubs are cheap on ebay... They've got a row of 10mm bolts, and makes changing springs easy if you want to lessen the lever tension. The stock clutch for my wrist, was a bit much after a couple years of riding her.
ECB brake pads on the front end improve the braking a good bit, single pot calipers are acceptable.
Air forks on the front, are cool because you can swap the fork oil with a vacuum pump and fill the forks like they are a lower unit on an outboard.
Heavy weight fork oil, helps the brake dive a lot. The rear shocks you can upgrade, also air, off late model stuff. 2009 equipment makes for a nicer ride. Get a shock pump, rather than hooking up to an air compressor.
Have fun, you'll like her.
Consider review of tire age.
Keep in mind that sometimes people end up with 10-15 year old tires on their motorcycles and the rubber becomes rock hard.
New tires should be under $500 for a carry in mount/balance.
Consider review of battery age.
The front sliders look like they require some clear coat removal and then polishing and you can do that yourself if you have a motorcycle jack.
The bike should prove reliable if previous owner took care of it and if you learn how to work on it.
Really simple machine.
If you are someone that needs to take a bike to dealer for everything then bike might not be for you since bike might be as old as some techs..
By using a factory service manual and this forum the bike should remain functional for some time if you are willing to work on it yourself with simple tools.
In regards to price.
People have all kinds of measures but i find that just about any big twin touring motorcycle that has nice curb appeal, rides straight and has a clean title will have a minimum value of $5,000 USA dollars.
Trending Topics
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Whatever the number, you sell it and go bike shopping.
Or you take this deal, knowing you'll be leaving money on the table. But in exchange, you avoid the headaches of selling your truck.
It's not like this trade you're looking at is ridiculously upside down. Couple of grand maybe.
The bike looks good. Personally, if I was in the market I'd call it $4500 ish cash.







