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1997 E-Glide Ultra Classic - temp sensor issue

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Old Aug 5, 2020 | 06:45 AM
  #1  
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Default 1997 E-Glide Ultra Classic - temp sensor issue

Hi @All!

As I have had a (for me) strange behavior, now seeking the swarm knowledge, guessing to find more Evo/MM experts here that in European forums.

Tha thing is, so far twice the cold idle rpm went up to 2600 rpm plus when fired up.
When warmed up the engine runs at normal idle rpm of about 1000 rpm.

As the TPS, cold and warm idle values have been set to the known values and normally the Ultra runs perfect I tried the (as an other user called it ) MM voodoo and pulled the two fuses for more than 30 minutes - after that everything fine again, cold idle in the normal range of about 1600 rpm and warm idle as always at about 1000 rpm.

As said, it happened twice, first time after a trip of about 200 miles, temperature about 80 F., while we had a rest of about 5 hours it started raining heavily and the temps dropped to about maybe 60 F. to 65 F. When started the cold idle went up to 2600 rpm + , as said while driving when warmed up the idle drops to the normal rpm.

This weekend had the same issue, had a trip from Vienna to Graz of about 110 miles in hot weather, about 90 F. and up, when arriving in Graz, in the evening about 8 hours later the Ultra fired up fine with a normal cold idle. At the time the temps have dropped to about 72 F.
During the ride home with two stops the temps in some lower mountains went down to about 60 F. again, at home about 66 F.
When firing up the Ultra some 10 hours later, it was parked in a car park below the building I am living in, it idled again at 2600 rpm+

From what I read in several threats here, I am afraid it's a matter of the Engine Temperature Sensor

What's your opinion, would you second this suspicion or do you have any other idea?
Thinking of just disconnect the cable for cold idle from the MM injection, seem to be easier to keep the idle by hand than to take any risk to do any harm to the engine with the high idle until I am sure it's time to replace the ETS, that horrible expensive hereover with about US$ 200.

Any suggestion and input is appreciated.

Sorry for the long post but didn't want to forget any detail.

Thanks
Roland
 
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Old Aug 7, 2020 | 10:09 AM
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Will this help?



 
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Old Aug 7, 2020 | 07:51 PM
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Default Same bike same problem

I have the same bike, chased the problem with PCII to control the MM. Evo-27 cam and bearing. New lifters adjustable push rods, high compression pistons, and Temp sensor. I really think I should have started with the sensor. Runs great now...
 
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Old Aug 8, 2020 | 04:00 AM
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Replace the sensor and check/adjust idles again.

Ive searched all over for aftermarket temp sensor.....no luck! So far....it’s a Harley only item.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2020 | 05:02 AM
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Have you tryed to clean the IAC? Brake cleaner or carb cleaner, inject it, at the IAC and try to see if it fixed the prob, if so, cheap fix. (many times there is dust blocking the airflow in the nippel, as resault up/down rpm at idle)
 
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Old Aug 8, 2020 | 06:31 AM
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Check to see if you have a stored fault code. If the engine temp sensor is bad, the code will be 14. The procedure to get the code is in the service manual or you can also search for it here in this forum.

The problem is "probably" the engine temp sensor. However; there are a few things you can do to ensure the idle works like it should. First, the idle speed control should be rebuilt. There is a kit you can buy. Mine cost me $50. The idle shaft rides on a bearing and that bearing gets dirty and hard to move. This puts a strain on the stepper motor. In the kit, you get a new bearing and also a new stepper motor.

Also, the Throttle position sensor should be adjusted. From the factory, the adjustment screws are filled with epoxy and will have to be dug out. The factory adjustment is also pretty lean. My bike ran much better after making this adjustment. Instructions are on this forum. From your post, it looks like you may have already done this.

I have a theory that the engine temperature sensor burns up frequently when the engine runs too lean due to a misadjusted TPS from the factory. I also read that the engine temp sensor was made by an Italian motorcycle manufacturer.


carl
 
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 04:33 AM
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Thank you very much for your input!

Sorry, was online for some days so I can reply just now .

@Beemervet thank you for the copy, took all steps as shown by the repair/service manual.

Concerning the post of @carlgrover , the TPS is adjusted to the values given in the well known youtube video as well the basic settings as the cold and warm idle values. Concerning the idle speed control kit, do you probably got an spare parts number, the google search did not find anything related for the Eco-engine?

The stepper motor seems to act fine but I will check it to the proposal of @BaggerHD , which will be the first action .

I think, if this does not really help, I go the way to replace the pricy temp sensor and see if its constantly fine again, pulling the fuses for 30 minutes is no real option .

As said thank you for your input
Roland
 
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Old Aug 12, 2020 | 08:21 PM
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OEM P/N is 27272-95A idle speed control actuator kit.

F/N 19. You get the lever with the bearing in it and the stepper motor.

See it here: https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...ION%20ASSEMBLY



 
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Old Aug 13, 2020 | 06:15 AM
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If you do replace the Idle Speed Motor you don't have to take the tank off. You can do it all from the right side. It's a bit tight, but doable.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2020 | 08:25 AM
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I have read the post a few times.
If i understand correctly the motorcycle drives and rides correctly.
Your concern is a higher than normal idle when motorcycle is cold and then it settles to normal once bike is ready to ride.
It reads like something might be getting stuck or is loose and not sitting 100% correct.
Check the nut on throttle arm to make sure it is tight. Sometimes nut can be super loose and the tab is the only thing holding it.
Review throttle cable ends at throttle body and inside handlebar clamp.
Confirm that throttle snaps back when released at the handlebars..Sometimes the handlebar grip can rub against clamp and prevent snap back.
It reads like one of those items is loose and sits incorrectly from time to time.
 
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