Thanks, I've been looking at too many numbers recently. I refer to my notes frequently unless I'm making a quick post.

 

I got into the carb today, I wanted to see what it had for jets.

I shouldn't be surprised but someone's been there before me. The main jet wasn't even finger tight. The emulsion tube didn't look like pictures I've seen and the number on the main jet is 170. That's smaller than the CA emissions jet. I've read that some manufacturers use a different numbering system, I suspect its a larger jet with a smaller number.
After doing some reading on various Harley sites I began to think someone installed a Dynojet kit.

I checked the vacuum hole in the slide with a drill bit and found it's been modified. The hole was larger than 1/8". I don't know what factory is but when I mentioned drilling the slide previously it would have been to the 1/8" that I've found recommended on other sites.

I found the CV Performance website, I think I'll buy a few items through them, replace the drilled slide and the emulsion tube and see what jets and needle are recommended for the mods my engine is getting.

 

Good call on the CV Performance, I get all my CV parts there, great stuff! their shipping is a bit slow, slide drilled 1/8 is junk! that's an old modification that makes the slide shudder, Id start with a 45-46 low jet and 170-180 high jet, that's stock cv jet numbers, CV Performance emulsion tube will take stock cv jets and is great, CVP Velocity Needle is excellent, get their needle jet to go with it, CVK40 Vacuum Slide again excellent, make sure you adjust the idle mixture screw when rejetting, if it idles smooth 2-3 turns out your low jet is pretty good

 

Part of the planned work for the bike this winter is to replace the swingarm.

I think the logical thing to do would be to wait until the engine is finished and put it back in the frame, then remove the rear tire and swing arm.
Except I have time to kill now while waiting for the engine to be finished.

How much more difficult would it be to block the trans and inner primary up in the frame and replace the swing arm before I reinstall the engine?

I'm trying not to remove anymore wiring than I have to and I don't want to pull the starter.

 

No problem at all actually. You have to block the transmission up even with the engine in place to remove the swing arm. With the wheel off, only takes about 20 more minutes for the swing arm to be on the ground.

Are you wanting to replace the assembly or rebuild the bushings or just replace the isolators?

You already have the later swing arm already unless you want to go to the TC style swing arm. If rebuilding, most of us go with the bearing upgrade. Sometimes, not always, you'll pick up a tick of vibration with bearings, but the handling improvements far out weigh anything you'll notice.

Don't forget to replace the front engine mount while it's down this far.

 

Good to read thanks. I am replacing the swingarm with another stock one. I screwed this one up right after I bought the bike, and welded a patch on it.
I was considering the bearings for handling purposes but was concerned with vibration. Your post answered that question for me. Can you recommend a brand? I thought I saw a brand in Mattbastards build thread but I couldn't find it when I looked just now.

The front motor mount looks and feels good. I was planning on using it, but it is cheap insurance to do it while I'm in there.

I'm going to change the oil filter location so as to avoid bathing that mount puck in oil.

My exhaust came today, I bought the Supertrapp 2 into 1 megaphone. I've read good things about that system, and it will free up the left side for the oil filter.

 

If the front mount is good, no need. I just figured while you were "there" with the front mount oil filter and all, it was the best time. They tend to degrade when oil soaked over the years.

CCE or Dew Mfg. (same thing) bearing kits are top of the line. V-Twin has a kit as well that works fine. I've used the V-Twin version but the first I mentioned are my preference now as the bearings are a much higher quality and mount inboard rather than outboard like the VT version. Replace the swing arm isolators with genuine HD only. 47564-86B

Most important - when fitting the bearings in the eye of the swing arm, they need to be spaced so they're snug against the standoff of the trans to the point you may need a rubber mallet to get it into position. If they don't fit snug, the transmission and engine will shift left and right and you'll have serious problems. Just follow the instruction sheet keeping that in mind and it's an easy job.

 

OK, time for the clutch.

I've disassembled mine, it still has the spring plate in it. I want to get that out of there.
The bike has somewhere between 25K to 40K miles on it. I suspect the speedometer has been replaced.

The friction discs look good, they measure from .708 to .712. Plenty of life left in them, I can't see replacing them unless it's a bad idea to mix old parts with new parts.
Can I buy one friction disc and two steels to replace the spring plate, or should I replace everything while I have it apart?

The $200 won't break the bank but I don't like replacing good parts unless there's a good reason to.

 

Yes to the one friction and two steels. I say run it with the mix of old and new, then wait till next winter.

im sure you went over budget already (like we all do). So give yourself a break on that expense till next year.

Just my 2 cents.

 

I don't have a budget so much as what I want or feel I need to spend the money on.
I ordered carb parts to replace the Dynojet parts and drilled slide in my carb. That would have bought a clutch.

So I'll install the good used clutch parts, it worked when I took it apart, I'm sure it will work for a while yet.