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I pulled the rear tire and swing arm today. I pulled the rear fender too.
I've been cleaning as I go and wanted to get the battery tray out, I couldn't see any way of getting it out without pulling the fender.
I figured if I kept messing with it I'd scratch the fender and wish I'd have pulled it off.
I think it's as far apart as I need to go.
No word yet on the engine, probably another two to three weeks. I was originally told five weeks.
I've decided to upgrade the rear swing arm, wheel and brake since I'm in this far. I have a 2005 swing arm and brake, I'm waiting on the wheel, and I need to order the bearing kit to adapt it to the bike.
When I decided to upgrade the swingarm and rear wheel I didn't realize I needed a narrower drive belt as well. More parts ordered, and time waiting for them.
And money spent. I'm glad I'm not trying to stick to a budget on this.
I used the CCE adapter kit for the swing arm bearing and had to use a .015" shim on the left side next to the trans. to get things to move freely.
The left side bearing would not press into the swingarm any further and there was no free play in the bearing when the swingarm axle was torqued.
A wheel bearing shim is close enough on the ID to work.
The engine is on hold waiting for parts, my flywheels haven't shown up yet, they're stuck in the mid west due to the weather.
I just put my evo back together with Wiseco 10:1s and an Andrews EV27 cam. This is all in a 93 electraglide, so its on the upper end of acceptable in terms of cylinder pressures for a heavy bike. But I have run this combo reliably in the past with two things...93 octane fuel and conservative timing during tuning.
I don't plan on dyno tuning because I just want a bike that gets up and goes, not looking to win races. these sites are helpful in picking targets and components.
I swung by the shop today to see what the word was on my engine, parts are in and work has begun.
The flywheels were in the trueing stand when I was told they have another customer that needs flywheels too. I mentioned that if they have an older five piece factory set I'd let the stroker set go to the other guy.
Done and done, save's me enough to pay for the fork cartridges and new rear shocks I decided to install and gets me a good rebuildable factory set of flywheels.
I picked up my engine Thur. afternoon and got it in the frame yesterday.
Soon I will need spark plug wires. Are factory wires sufficient for increased compression and aftermarket ignition?
I don't think the aftermarket wires are worth the price but I've never built or tuned an engine with a hot cam or bumped up compression.
Any carbon fiber spark plug wire will work just fine. Don't use metal/copper wires. Cute colors, big jacket, big conductors are just gimmicks to fleece an unknowing market.
Thanks. I prefer understated so black jacketed works fine. I wasn't sure if a bigger core would be necessary/useful or worth the money.
I'll get a factory set ordered up.
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Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
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Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
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