First Evo Build
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 130
Likes: 80
From: NV
First Evo Build
I bought my '97 Road King two years ago last Aug. My plan was to eventually freshen up the bottom end, then build the engine. I've recently discovered that I need to get the bottom end worked on now, and am considering my options.
I've always preferred to optimize what the factory built, whether it was my Cummins powered pickup, my Jeep Rubicon, or this old RK. I'd rather build the original engine than replace it with aftermarket.
I want a durable, reliable freeway cruiser for traveling. How long will a factory Evo bottom end last with 10.5:1 compression and a cam to support it? I don't plan on racing it, or stop light drags and bouncing it off the red line every shift.
I'm a competent, experienced mechanic but I've never built a Harley Engine. I plan on finding a machine shop to do their part, while I do the disassembly and reassembly. If 10.5:1 is too high for a durable freeway traveling machine I'll build with less compression.
My main goal is to maintain durability while building as much usable HP (think freeway cruising RPM) as possible using the factory long block components (cases, crank, cylinders and heads).
I've always preferred to optimize what the factory built, whether it was my Cummins powered pickup, my Jeep Rubicon, or this old RK. I'd rather build the original engine than replace it with aftermarket.
I want a durable, reliable freeway cruiser for traveling. How long will a factory Evo bottom end last with 10.5:1 compression and a cam to support it? I don't plan on racing it, or stop light drags and bouncing it off the red line every shift.
I'm a competent, experienced mechanic but I've never built a Harley Engine. I plan on finding a machine shop to do their part, while I do the disassembly and reassembly. If 10.5:1 is too high for a durable freeway traveling machine I'll build with less compression.
My main goal is to maintain durability while building as much usable HP (think freeway cruising RPM) as possible using the factory long block components (cases, crank, cylinders and heads).
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 130
Likes: 80
From: NV
I opened the cam chest for inspection and found the bearing retaining ring laying in the bottom, after being chewed on by the oil pump drive gears.
The bearing sleeve had shifted outward on the crank.
Here's my thread on it, member t150vej could tell me where the ring belonged and pointed out the shifted bearing sleeve.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...cam-chest.html
The bearing sleeve had shifted outward on the crank.
Here's my thread on it, member t150vej could tell me where the ring belonged and pointed out the shifted bearing sleeve.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...cam-chest.html
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,093
Likes: 7,619
From: Poolville
I remember your initial posting on this Yes it was the retainer for the pinion bearing on the cam chest side.. If you're looking to improve on the bottom end just get an S&S 4 5/8 crank maybe a small bore job bringing up to 89 inch at 10.2:1 with a woods 6 cam Maybe even stage II heads... You'll have reliability for a lifetime and really good power to go with it..
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,079
Likes: 2,151
From: Ohio
I remember your initial posting on this Yes it was the retainer for the pinion bearing on the cam chest side.. If you're looking to improve on the bottom end just get an S&S 4 5/8 crank maybe a small bore job bringing up to 89 inch at 10.2:1 with a woods 6 cam Maybe even stage II heads... You'll have reliability for a lifetime and really good power to go with it..
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 130
Likes: 80
From: NV
Thanks for the replies. The stroker crank is appealing.
Keep in mind this is my first Harley build, I'm learning as I go.
I've gone over the manual a couple times, it doesn't look to me like another crank is a bolt in affair. I would still need to pay a shop to lap and fit the pinion side bearing.
Or does the manual make more of it than there is?
I would be saving money on paying someone to rebuild my original crank, depending on the price difference I can see buying the stroker crank.
Keep in mind this is my first Harley build, I'm learning as I go.
I've gone over the manual a couple times, it doesn't look to me like another crank is a bolt in affair. I would still need to pay a shop to lap and fit the pinion side bearing.
Or does the manual make more of it than there is?
I would be saving money on paying someone to rebuild my original crank, depending on the price difference I can see buying the stroker crank.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,426
Likes: 3,554
From: Texas
I bought my '97 Road King two years ago last Aug. My plan was to eventually freshen up the bottom end, then build the engine. I've recently discovered that I need to get the bottom end worked on now, and am considering my options.
I've always preferred to optimize what the factory built, whether it was my Cummins powered pickup, my Jeep Rubicon, or this old RK. I'd rather build the original engine than replace it with aftermarket.
I want a durable, reliable freeway cruiser for traveling. How long will a factory Evo bottom end last with 10.5:1 compression and a cam to support it? I don't plan on racing it, or stop light drags and bouncing it off the red line every shift.
I'm a competent, experienced mechanic but I've never built a Harley Engine. I plan on finding a machine shop to do their part, while I do the disassembly and reassembly. If 10.5:1 is too high for a durable freeway traveling machine I'll build with less compression.
My main goal is to maintain durability while building as much usable HP (think freeway cruising RPM) as possible using the factory long block components (cases, crank, cylinders and heads).
I've always preferred to optimize what the factory built, whether it was my Cummins powered pickup, my Jeep Rubicon, or this old RK. I'd rather build the original engine than replace it with aftermarket.
I want a durable, reliable freeway cruiser for traveling. How long will a factory Evo bottom end last with 10.5:1 compression and a cam to support it? I don't plan on racing it, or stop light drags and bouncing it off the red line every shift.
I'm a competent, experienced mechanic but I've never built a Harley Engine. I plan on finding a machine shop to do their part, while I do the disassembly and reassembly. If 10.5:1 is too high for a durable freeway traveling machine I'll build with less compression.
My main goal is to maintain durability while building as much usable HP (think freeway cruising RPM) as possible using the factory long block components (cases, crank, cylinders and heads).
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,079
Likes: 2,151
From: Ohio
Thanks for the replies. The stroker crank is appealing.
Keep in mind this is my first Harley build, I'm learning as I go.
I've gone over the manual a couple times, it doesn't look to me like another crank is a bolt in affair. I would still need to pay a shop to lap and fit the pinion side bearing.
Or does the manual make more of it than there is?
I would be saving money on paying someone to rebuild my original crank, depending on the price difference I can see buying the stroker crank.
Keep in mind this is my first Harley build, I'm learning as I go.
I've gone over the manual a couple times, it doesn't look to me like another crank is a bolt in affair. I would still need to pay a shop to lap and fit the pinion side bearing.
Or does the manual make more of it than there is?
I would be saving money on paying someone to rebuild my original crank, depending on the price difference I can see buying the stroker crank.
Just need to weigh in how much money you'll be spending, if you start needing to pay someone to do the work then your getting closer to a S&S engine. I've been running a big cube Ultima (130" now) since selling the 89" and had several issues along the way requiring tear downs, Ultima covered the parts replacement with no warranty involved and the engine has been dependable the last 5 years but one of the failures was a rod bearing so it's basically new. Personally would build a OEM 80", S&S flywheeled 89" or a S&S engine before a Ultima route.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 2,605
From: NC USA
Most every used one I ever lapped had less than 45% roller contact from the factory when I started on it. Imagine a roller just touching here and there... unacceptable, to me anyway.
The outer races are replaceable but a new one still has to be lapped. It takes a good bit of lapping to get a good contact area/clearance spec,so if you can find a Shovel mechanic/shop they should have the lapping tool to properly fit the bearing/race. Actually any builder should have the tool. Don't shortcut that step when you go back together.
Also, any new S&S or T&O flywheel will have a (removable) 1.250" pinion bearing surface and will not have that inner sleeve race. You will have to use pre- '90 oil pump drive pinion, spacer, pinion gear and nut. Also, if you buy an assembled flywheel from anyone, don't assume it will be true as it should be when you get it. They're bullet proof in the cases but often as not, they'll get knocked in shipping enough they won't be as true as when shipped by the time you get it. Don't ask how I know
Last edited by t150vej; Jan 1, 2021 at 01:25 PM. Reason: also
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 130
Likes: 80
From: NV
Thanks. Since finding the out of place inner pinion bearing race I've paid close attention to that part of the manual.
Since I'm boosting the compression and putting my time into the engine work I want to make sure the bottom end is correct.
I enjoy working on my bike, but I don't want to make this an annual event.
Since I'm boosting the compression and putting my time into the engine work I want to make sure the bottom end is correct.
I enjoy working on my bike, but I don't want to make this an annual event.