Oil light stays on
I bought the s&s one from j&p cycles. But if there's one thing I've learned with sensors it's that they can always be bad out of the box
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,418
Likes: 2,621
From: NC USA
The check ball spring is very light and doubtful it would be the issue.
You should check the bypass spring and plunger to make sure it slides freely in the bore and isn't scored. It's the plug on the tall tower of the pump pump directly behind the tappet screen plug. There's a spring and cup valve. May need a pencil magnet to get the valve out.
Since you rode it with no noises, you have some oil pressure but after verifying the light circuit is good, further checking is definitely a good idea.
You should check the bypass spring and plunger to make sure it slides freely in the bore and isn't scored. It's the plug on the tall tower of the pump pump directly behind the tappet screen plug. There's a spring and cup valve. May need a pencil magnet to get the valve out.
Since you rode it with no noises, you have some oil pressure but after verifying the light circuit is good, further checking is definitely a good idea.
The check ball spring is very light and doubtful it would be the issue.
You should check the bypass spring and plunger to make sure it slides freely in the bore and isn't scored. It's the plug on the tall tower of the pump pump directly behind the tappet screen plug. There's a spring and cup valve. May need a pencil magnet to get the valve out.
Since you rode it with no noises, you have some oil pressure but after verifying the light circuit is good, further checking is definitely a good idea.
You should check the bypass spring and plunger to make sure it slides freely in the bore and isn't scored. It's the plug on the tall tower of the pump pump directly behind the tappet screen plug. There's a spring and cup valve. May need a pencil magnet to get the valve out.
Since you rode it with no noises, you have some oil pressure but after verifying the light circuit is good, further checking is definitely a good idea.
All three caps will be coming off to replace with new hex head fittings so I will check the relief valve to ensure it is moving freely and visually inspect while it's open. That is the bypass valve you are referring to correct?
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,418
Likes: 2,621
From: NC USA
The reason I thought check ball first is because my understanding is that the passage to the oil pressure switch comes from the same port.
All three caps will be coming off to replace with new hex head fittings so I will check the relief valve to ensure it is moving freely and visually inspect while it's open. That is the bypass valve you are referring to correct?
All three caps will be coming off to replace with new hex head fittings so I will check the relief valve to ensure it is moving freely and visually inspect while it's open. That is the bypass valve you are referring to correct?
The oil from the tank goes directly to the feed gears. Feed gears pump oil to the bottom of the check ball seat. Basically no pressure required to open the check. Then the oil goes up thru a passage to the bottom of the bypass valve. In that chamber there is a drilling that goes at a 45 angle to the cam chest cover and feeds the crank pin via the pinion shaft.
Also from the bypass chamber, oil goes to the journal and thru the tappet screen and feeds the tappets thru the guides and on up thru the push rods, rockers and sprays the valve springs. It's this journal the pressure switch is drilled/threaded into.
When the bypass valve opens, it puts the extra oil directly back into feed gear cavity.
I've never done it so can't speak to the effects, but verify it doesn't have a Twin Cam oil filter. If in doubt, use a Wix 51215 or equivalent till you get sorted out.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,173
Likes: 12,739
From: South Carolina
A Twin cam filter will have no effect on oil pressure, the oil filter on an Evo is on the scavenge side of the oil circuit.
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Yes, referring to the bypass valve in the earlier post. Without a bunch of photos to mark up, I'll try to be concise.
The oil from the tank goes directly to the feed gears. Feed gears pump oil to the bottom of the check ball seat. Basically no pressure required to open the check. Then the oil goes up thru a passage to the bottom of the bypass valve. In that chamber there is a drilling that goes at a 45 angle to the cam chest cover and feeds the crank pin via the pinion shaft.
Also from the bypass chamber, oil goes to the journal and thru the tappet screen and feeds the tappets thru the guides and on up thru the push rods, rockers and sprays the valve springs. It's this journal the pressure switch is drilled/threaded into.
When the bypass valve opens, it puts the extra oil directly back into feed gear cavity.
I've never done it so can't speak to the effects, but verify it doesn't have a Twin Cam oil filter. If in doubt, use a Wix 51215 or equivalent till you get sorted out.
The oil from the tank goes directly to the feed gears. Feed gears pump oil to the bottom of the check ball seat. Basically no pressure required to open the check. Then the oil goes up thru a passage to the bottom of the bypass valve. In that chamber there is a drilling that goes at a 45 angle to the cam chest cover and feeds the crank pin via the pinion shaft.
Also from the bypass chamber, oil goes to the journal and thru the tappet screen and feeds the tappets thru the guides and on up thru the push rods, rockers and sprays the valve springs. It's this journal the pressure switch is drilled/threaded into.
When the bypass valve opens, it puts the extra oil directly back into feed gear cavity.
I've never done it so can't speak to the effects, but verify it doesn't have a Twin Cam oil filter. If in doubt, use a Wix 51215 or equivalent till you get sorted out.