How old are your lifters?

If they haven't been replaced since new they could be bleeding down.

 

I think you need to make a video of trying to start it... I would like to rule out a thing or 2. Primarily I would like to hear it crank..

 

the original motor on this bike had less than 8k miles. So im not to sure it would be an issue just yet. With the new cam I'd have to ask my brother if he even bothered replacing them or reusing them

 

I have it all apart and some parts on order or I would. It is just a healthy dry crank. When I spray the starter fluid it still cranks until I open the throttle just slightly then it ignites and fires over. It's acting like it's not getting enough fuel ignite in the combustion chamber. Like I've stated earlier, I he adapters on the cv carb and it'd a good 1.5-2.5" away from its stock location with the factory cv carb intake. Im going to try and eliminate the adapters and see if that's the issue because I can crank that throttle like 7 times and each the fuel squirt and still won't start. I would assume the distance I added, intake gaskets or like others have stated I should check my compression and timing/ignition systems. I'll do myself a checklist after I go through the new parts starting with intake gaskets and go from there.

 

My ironhead used to be a bitch to start when it was cold. This is with the stock bendix accelerator pumper type carb. It was real easy to go from no gas to cylinders half full by pumping the throttle trying to get it to cold start. I cussed that SOB for all it was worth.

So you've watched the carb squirt raw gas down the throat when you pump it so that works. And you can verify the choke works by pulling the cable and watching it close. You might need to work on your technique. Try one full pump on the gas with the choke on then hit the starter while not touching the throttle. If it pops, push the choke in then ease open the throttle slightly without pumping and hit the starter again.

If your bike runs great after you get it running, there can't be too much wrong with it.

carl

 

Fair it could be my technique. I have pumped it like 8 times tried to start it, then hit it with some starting fluid and then it would fire though so idk

 

One thing hotrod may have been eluding to by suggesting a video, is how fast it spins with the starter. These Evos, especially after not being run for a long time and even if everything is good, they have to spin really fast to ever start the first time. Even if it has, they don't like to start with low voltage or a slow starter. Several reasons for that....

So far, no one has chimed in who has, or knows anyone who has run the intake adapters you have. They make a press-on flange for the CV-to-S&S intake but once it's on, that's it. No going back. The flange- to - grommet adapter you have was primarily designed for a Mikuni which is a different animal (not vacuum operated) from a CV and no doubt sets the air cleaner out so far, it might be uncomfortable to ride.

More I ponder, more it makes sense the extra couple inches away from the manifold may be causing the actual vapor to not get where it needs to be on a cold start. Instant blast off with an aerosol somewhat adds to that theory.

If you choose to use the correct intake for the CV, do not buy a used one, seriously. That can cause you more problems if it isn't perfect and none of them are if they've been run a long time. Don't ask me how I know
V-Twin sells an import copy that's pretty good or you can go Screamin Eagle (part# 29636-99) for a few more bucks and it will accept a 44mm as well as the 40mm if you ever want to go bigger.

Do post back when you get it sorted out. No one here knows everything and most of us enjoy learning as much as sharing knowledge.

 

Thanks t1, that's exactly what I was thinking motor rotation cold.. I was looking further into the fact that there is definitely a build to this motor (op said heads and cam).. I don't think anybody would go through all that work without putting in Pistons as well and have higher compression.. As for the spacer between the carb and S&S intake, that's done to help create more torque at low end and more hp at to end.. I use one on my 96” build.. they do make a difference. Not sure if the guy has compression releases which will slow down the rotation making it even harder to start cold.. This is why I wanted to see and hear a video... Don't the CV carbs have a minimum slide screw that will keep the slide cracked a tad so when cranking it'll suck the Fuel in? I've never been a CV guy... Just a note the spacer will not affect starting unless the seal from the carb to the adapter is shot...

 

No, just the idle speed screw which opens the butterfly behind the slide. But it takes very little intake vacuum to raise the slide first few mm's. And you're right, ANY vacuum leak, even ones that won't show up with spray or propane checking will not let a CV start or run right. Otherwise they do a great job for general riding (decent power and mileage).

I understand (a little bit) about spacing to change velocity of the vapor for cylinder fill. The original butterfly carbs (84-89) have the spacer between the carb and "Y" but use rubber boots from that Y to the head. It spaces everything out so the air cleaner hold up the carb and and when you go from that setup to a CV, the backing plate for the CV will bolt right up.

It's just with these CV's... If you ride them at least once a month or so, never a problem. But even with everything totally right and clean, good gas and all, if they sit several months they have to really spin fast and seemingly forever to light off. I usually don't even try without a car battery and jumper cables so the starter doesn't get too hot. Only exception I've found is on a fresh top end on first start. Seems with gas in the carb, they'll most always fire and run in a couple seconds. ??

 

Does it have electronic ignition or points?