Having some issues...
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 22
Likes: 2
From: MA
One thing hotrod may have been eluding to by suggesting a video, is how fast it spins with the starter. These Evos, especially after not being run for a long time and even if everything is good, they have to spin really fast to ever start the first time. Even if it has, they don't like to start with low voltage or a slow starter. Several reasons for that....
So far, no one has chimed in who has, or knows anyone who has run the intake adapters you have. They make a press-on flange for the CV-to-S&S intake but once it's on, that's it. No going back. The flange- to - grommet adapter you have was primarily designed for a Mikuni which is a different animal (not vacuum operated) from a CV and no doubt sets the air cleaner out so far, it might be uncomfortable to ride.
More I ponder, more it makes sense the extra couple inches away from the manifold may be causing the actual vapor to not get where it needs to be on a cold start. Instant blast off with an aerosol somewhat adds to that theory.
If you choose to use the correct intake for the CV, do not buy a used one, seriously. That can cause you more problems if it isn't perfect and none of them are if they've been run a long time. Don't ask me how I know
V-Twin sells an import copy that's pretty good or you can go Screamin Eagle (part# 29636-99) for a few more bucks and it will accept a 44mm as well as the 40mm if you ever want to go bigger.
Do post back when you get it sorted out. No one here knows everything and most of us enjoy learning as much as sharing knowledge.
So far, no one has chimed in who has, or knows anyone who has run the intake adapters you have. They make a press-on flange for the CV-to-S&S intake but once it's on, that's it. No going back. The flange- to - grommet adapter you have was primarily designed for a Mikuni which is a different animal (not vacuum operated) from a CV and no doubt sets the air cleaner out so far, it might be uncomfortable to ride.
More I ponder, more it makes sense the extra couple inches away from the manifold may be causing the actual vapor to not get where it needs to be on a cold start. Instant blast off with an aerosol somewhat adds to that theory.
If you choose to use the correct intake for the CV, do not buy a used one, seriously. That can cause you more problems if it isn't perfect and none of them are if they've been run a long time. Don't ask me how I know
V-Twin sells an import copy that's pretty good or you can go Screamin Eagle (part# 29636-99) for a few more bucks and it will accept a 44mm as well as the 40mm if you ever want to go bigger.
Do post back when you get it sorted out. No one here knows everything and most of us enjoy learning as much as sharing knowledge.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,422
Likes: 2,621
From: NC USA
I am actually running that press on adapter. I'll try different techniques to starting, it's fast spinning unless I try to many times and then the battery gets tired quickly (obviously) and then I give it. Once it does a slower crank I stop put the charger on it and walk away for a bit. My buddy has some super e carb stuff sitting around he's gunna let me try and run that too just to try it and see if it does anything. I'll get back to everyone once I replace the intake gaskets and try again.
Generally on a cold start in say 50-60 degrees, 3-4 full twists on the grip, full choke and throttle closed works for most. If it fires and dies, 2 more twists and repeat. But naturally, they each have their own personality and there are no 2 alike. Good luck
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,116
Likes: 7,639
From: Poolville
When you mount the S&S make sure you got the isolator between the carburetor and the intake, that's mandatory and when you go to start it don't use the enricher, just do two full pumps of the throttle and then hit the starter button.. For jetting a 70 main and a .0295 intermediate should get you real close... Should fire right up..
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 22
Likes: 2
From: MA
When you mount the S&S make sure you got the isolator between the carburetor and the intake, that's mandatory and when you go to start it don't use the enricher, just do two full pumps of the throttle and then hit the starter button.. For jetting a 70 main and a .0295 intermediate should get you real close... Should fire right up..
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 22
Likes: 2
From: MA
OK, cool. You may already know, but just in case... clean manifold and heads. Most important - Use a thin film of grease or vasoline on the o-rings. Run the screws down till they touch the flanges (there is a front and rear, they're marked) then put your carb on the manifold and the bracket or a/c back plate on the carb and bolt that to the heads before you tighten the flange bolts. Yeah, it's a pain to get in there to tighten, but "adjusting" the manifold after it's snug so everything else can line up will cause sealing problems.
Generally on a cold start in say 50-60 degrees, 3-4 full twists on the grip, full choke and throttle closed works for most. If it fires and dies, 2 more twists and repeat. But naturally, they each have their own personality and there are no 2 alike. Good luck
Generally on a cold start in say 50-60 degrees, 3-4 full twists on the grip, full choke and throttle closed works for most. If it fires and dies, 2 more twists and repeat. But naturally, they each have their own personality and there are no 2 alike. Good luck
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
So to reply to the general questions. No not super e, cv style carb. Using the super e manifold and adapter plate. Pulled the carb off to fid the float and leaking gas issue from that, it was sitting for a while so I made sure to clean it but I had the tank off, fenders off and all drained and painted. Bike runs awesome when warm, just a hell of a time getting it started when it's cold. I remember having a somewhat similar issue with a suzuki v twin and it was the carb boot. So i was assuming the intake gaskets that's why I'm replacing those too. Once it's up to temp, runs and rides great. Everything's clean, just doesn't like to start when cold.
Granted it won't make your bike run any better when it's warm but it makes cold starts easy as hell.
I installed one on m Heritage and it can fire up and go just as fast if not faster than a fuel injected bike.
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 22
Likes: 2
From: MA
Install and Dynatek 2ki ignition and your cold start problem will go away.
Granted it won't make your bike run any better when it's warm but it makes cold starts easy as hell.
I installed one on m Heritage and it can fire up and go just as fast if not faster than a fuel injected bike.
Granted it won't make your bike run any better when it's warm but it makes cold starts easy as hell.
I installed one on m Heritage and it can fire up and go just as fast if not faster than a fuel injected bike.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,422
Likes: 2,621
From: NC USA
Easy enough to check the battery in the bike. Charge it fully, let it rest an hour then with a volt meter on the battery terminals, turn the starter over over for 5-8 seconds. If the voltage drops below 9.6, may be time for a new one.
I don't do videos but found this one. If you listen to it carefully while it's actually turning (ignore the clicking), if it's spinning any slower than this, it needs a battery and/or starter. They'll start cranking over this slowly, but only if everything else is as it needs to be....
Listen from about 8 seconds on
I don't do videos but found this one. If you listen to it carefully while it's actually turning (ignore the clicking), if it's spinning any slower than this, it needs a battery and/or starter. They'll start cranking over this slowly, but only if everything else is as it needs to be....
Listen from about 8 seconds on
Thread Starter
|
Novice
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 22
Likes: 2
From: MA
Easy enough to check the battery in the bike. Charge it fully, let it rest an hour then with a volt meter on the battery terminals, turn the starter over over for 5-8 seconds. If the voltage drops below 9.6, may be time for a new one.
I don't do videos but found this one. If you listen to it carefully while it's actually turning (ignore the clicking), if it's spinning any slower than this, it needs a battery and/or starter. They'll start cranking over this slowly, but only if everything else is as it needs to be....
Listen from about 8 seconds on
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xshq6ocjUk4&t=8s
I don't do videos but found this one. If you listen to it carefully while it's actually turning (ignore the clicking), if it's spinning any slower than this, it needs a battery and/or starter. They'll start cranking over this slowly, but only if everything else is as it needs to be....
Listen from about 8 seconds on
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xshq6ocjUk4&t=8s