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The 30 amp circuit breaker would be the one, yes? That’s behind the seat next to the starter relay bolting to the inside of the back fender. BOTH are NEW. However, I assume a circuit breaker could go bad without tripping?
I will now check the wiring from the batt to the breaker….it’s not a long travel point from the batt to the breaker if I recall. So far, I will not be taking off the tanks, and may run a swap of the ignition switches. If that persists, the tanks come off.
Like I said, you have an unacceptable voltage drop somewhere between the battery and the coil/module. You can start from that end or the other doesn't matter, just do not skip any part of the circuit until you find it.
There may be another breaker somewhere for lights and/or ignition, I can't remember on the FX models.
Like I said, you have an unacceptable voltage drop somewhere between the battery and the coil/module. You can start from that end or the other doesn't matter, just do not skip any part of the circuit until you find it.
There may be another breaker somewhere for lights and/or ignition, I can't remember on the FX models.
Notice he's ignoring checking & cleaning the grounds? What do want to bet ......
I' see you said you rewired the whole bike and you now have all new Deutsch connectors.. The ignition should be on its own circuit.. If you have it on the lighting circuit and you don't have the proper gauge wiring it is going to draw down the power to the ignition and it will give you intermittent problems 10.6v at the coil and to the ignition module is borderline low and probably causing all your issues.. It sounds like you need to run a separate circuit and fuse from the 30 Amper main to a 15 amp fuse for ignition only..
Notice he's ignoring checking & cleaning the grounds? What do want to bet ......
I would never, ever bet against a bad ground causing a problem
Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
I' see you said you rewired the whole bike and you now have all new Deutsch connectors.. The ignition should be on its own circuit.. If you have it on the lighting circuit and you don't have the proper gauge wiring it is going to draw down the power to the ignition and it will give you intermittent problems 10.6v at the coil and to the ignition module is borderline low and probably causing all your issues.. It sounds like you need to run a separate circuit and fuse from the 30 Amper main to a 15 amp fuse for ignition only..
Good point. Corrosion and oxidation will crawl into the wires from the ends and cause resistance.
Whatever the case, for those who have done a good bit of automotive electrical "fixin" it's usually a lot easier to just do it instead of trying to type out how and where to go at it. Is for me anyway
. It sounds like you need to run a separate circuit and fuse from the 30 Amper main to a 15 amp fuse for ignition only..
In the past I saw vehicles with Amps and CB Ham radios wired into what ever ckt was closest to a unit.
One of first things we considered was to disconnect the added things.
A number of times it allowed us to pin point a problem. There was an aftermarket stereo installer in town for a awhile that caused lots of problems.
OP The ignition needs to be a stand alone circuit as mentioned
As I wrote, everything was replaced exactly as is, and to the service manual. Nothing was changed. All wires are of the same gauge, and everything worked fine for months until this.
Nope. Did not ignore. I mentioned that somewhere that it was on my to do list second. Checked and cleaned. Now, these all ground near the batt. IF there is another ground point somewhere—like the Voes is at the bracket—then I need to check and find.
Not taking that bet
Least it sounds like he is using a DVOM and not just a test light.
WP
Meter will lie to you in some static tests and show everything is happy with the world, load it and it could show something else entirely. Some cases a test light is the better choice it simulates a load and will dim or flicker where a meter will not.
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