So, first post on here, I recently became the owner of a 1988 FXRS-SP. Super low miles and it's not been started since the mid 90's. So far I've went thru all the basic restart steps, gas tank was empty and clean, oil had been drained. So I gave the oil tank a rinsing and filled it up. Checked and gave the carb a good cleaning. It starts and is obviously in need of a better carb cleaning, but here's my problem. It will only turn over with the key in the accessory position. In run/start position I get nothing, not even a click. I've checked my circuit protectors, all good, checked the ignition switch it reads good, kill switch checks good, neutral switch is good and swapped out the starter relay just for the heck of it. Not really sure which direct to go next. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance

 

Are you working with a wiring diagram?
Make sure the ignition switch is correctly connected to the circuit breakers, and also that the breakers are correctly connected to their respective circuits.

Here is a pic:

 

There is breaker but no actual "ACC" provision in that bike. Yeah I know, the decal may say that, but that's not how it's wired.

There should be a jumper or copper strap across the "bat" side posts of the acc and ign breakers. There should be a jumper wire across the posts on the the back of the main switch from ign-lights. On the main switch - Red (wire) to bat, green (wire) to L, White (wire) to ig with a white jumper across ig and L.

It may have been modified it so it would start without the lights being on. That's really simple on the FL but more involved on the FX and unless I did it, may be complicated (typing and reading) to get it back like it should be. So check the connections in the above paragraph and get back to us. I'll help you with it if I can.

*Beat me to it! It's 80 degrees in Bluffton - why ain't you riding? I was looking for my diagrams and didn't refresh before posting

 

Like t150vej said.... you can see in the diagram that there should be a white jumper between the two terminals on the Ignition switch. Basically speaking they use a 2 position switch as if it was a single position. Saying this... it should start in either position... unless the jumper has been removed.

 

Finally got time to check out your suggestions. Ignition switch was wired correctly except for the jumper from White to Green. When I jumped that, I don't get anything in accessory or ignition. So at least I'm making headway. I guess its a case of something inhibiting it from starting when the lights are on. I do have a schematic and will break out the handy volt/ohm meter and start my search. Thanks for the advice and any further suggestions are always appreciated!

 

With that said, don't rule out a bad main switch. They do go bad on occasion. The '88 is pretty simple actually but looks scary in places with all that wire.

If you can, use a short jumper with alligator clips from the red to the green or white on back of the switch. (you already have green and white jumped) That should power everything and if it does, that would indicate a bad switch.

And don't forget to check battery voltage....

 

Back at it again. Original ignition switch is wired with jumper not between Green and white. When I put that jumper in I get nothing as far as starting in either accessory or ignition. Same thing if I jump between green and red. Lights are on but no start, no click. Voltage is 12.5 vdc Fresh battery and on a battery tender. Where I'm getting confused is, if I take the jumper off between green and white, bike will start in accessory but not in ignition. And if I switch from accessory to ignition when running bike dies. As always suggestions and recommendations are highly appreciated!

 

Sounds like it's losing power when under load from a poor connection due to corrosion at a breaker or connection.

Take all 3 wires off the switch and hold or clip them together. If you DO get lights and start, the switch is bad. If not, next thing to do is clean each and every connector at each and every breaker. It's tedious cleaning each eye lug and especially so with the breaker posts (or you can simply replace them). But that's something that just has to be done when a bike gets age on it.

 

Just tried another ignition switch same results. So it's cleaning the connections time. Than ks for the advice!

 

Yes, it's just tedious boring work but part "of it" and something that only needs to be done once in a long while.

Also, check the battery negative cable where to connects to the starter gear housing and the braided ground strap that connects between the (inboard side) inner primary and frame cross member. They will do freaky things if the frame and engine aren't both properly grounded, but I think you'll find the ghost on one or more of the breaker connections.