When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Here's the markings I mentioned earlier. Just seems to be "visual" and not "physical" if that makes any sense. I tried to get a fingernail to catch and it just glided over them as if they weren't there.
Not sure I would use either the cam or the lifters.. looks like the cam is losing it's hardness.. I see it more on the second lobe from the inner cam bearing.. front intake lobe.. it should have a polished look.. Hard to tell from a pic...
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Feb 24, 2022 at 07:40 AM.
Hard to tell, it could be it looks a lot worse in pictures than actually seeing everything, kind of like looking at cylinders with a bore scope, use some 600 grit or a scuff pad and see if those marks come off the cam without much effort, if it's frosting, don't reuse.
The cam gear and pinion looks like some rust, the face of the gear teeth look similar to the cam and lifters.
Went to go take a picture for you and the lifter fell out through the bottom of the tappet block and was easily able to take out the rod. The rods look like they're Crane adjustables according to their product book Part # 4-0018, lifters look like stock.
The FXR drew first blood today.
looking back at this pic I would think that's a lot of scoring.. What do the lifter block boys look like? I replaced my lifters and my blocks because of this.. Funny that the other pic didn't show this.... And as Schex stated the rust in the cam chest is a little unusual as well.. how long did this bike sit?
But I guess the big question is how well did the bike run and was it quiet?
Since you have your new EV-27 and PRs, I would get new lifters, and put her back together and be done. It is a good practice to run new lifters on a new cam, but in the real world, there's nothing wrong with running your current lifters if there's no up/down play in the rollers. Like mentioned earlier, there's no need to replace the cam bearing. If you do, you can borrow the blind hole puller from Autozone and use old cam to install if you don't have the tool. You'll need to check cam endplay; ballpark for EV-27 is a .050-.055 thousand shim.
looking back at this pic I would think that's a lot of scoring.. What do the lifter block boys look like? I replaced my lifters and my blocks because of this.. Funny that the other pic didn't show this.... And as Schex stated the rust in the cam chest is a little unusual as well.. how long did this bike sit? But I guess the big question is how well did the bike run and was it quiet?
I'll get some more pictures tonight. I don't know how long the bike sat, if it ever did. The bike ran great, a little cold blooded though, no scary noises that I'm aware of. But this is my first Evo so I'm not familiar with that sounds are "normal" besides the obviously bad ones. I do have one recording that I sent the the previous owner back when I first got the bike running after the module died, it might help. https://photos.app.goo.gl/wNZR81u3X7zbiyKJ6
Originally Posted by daven9113
Since you have your new EV-27 and PRs, I would get new lifters, and put her back together and be done. It is a good practice to run new lifters on a new cam, but in the real world, there's nothing wrong with running your current lifters if there's no up/down play in the rollers. Like mentioned earlier, there's no need to replace the cam bearing. If you do, you can borrow the blind hole puller from Autozone and use old cam to install if you don't have the tool. You'll need to check cam endplay; ballpark for EV-27 is a .050-.055 thousand shim.
As far as the cam bearing, I think I'm just going to leave it alone. It's already the superior one and it looks and feels just fine. Lifters are a toss up, hopefully more pictures will tell a more complete story.
The marks on that one push rod is where it's tapped on the upper push rod cover.
The white lines on the rollers are a none event.
If you put new lifters in with the existing tappet guides, the new lifter bodies will look just like in about 2-3000 miles.