My dash lite cycles bright/ dim repeatedly, '92 FLHTP.
Bike is a garage queen less than 5K, never in police hands.
Manual indicates this indicates an electrical fault.
Replaced batt with a good Yuasa 5 mths ago, charge not running down as in a short.
Attempted to tow to a recommended shop, shop's rec. tow guy was erratic, was cancelling, rescheduling, busy again.
Tried yesterday w AAA, I even stopped at their shop, seemed capable met a boss there (biker).
Well yesterday they showed w/o a clue.
Got the bike on the bed, He strapped wheels to sides at bottom, on sidestand and was ready to roll.
I showed him how the bike will fall over as soon as he leaves the driveway.
His supervisor shows pissed off w another strap to flop over the bike.
Mission aborted, I told him no way this bike is leaving this way. I've transported my Bonny by myself many times. never a problem.
As mentioned in another thread, nobody gives a sh*t about our bikes.
Sorry for the rant, any suggestions appreciated.

 

I didn't think they put the Sunburst Orange tanks on anything but the triples in '74 (?) My '74 Triple has that color and I'm still mad the Feds mandated all shifters had to be on the left after 1974...

If the surging dash lights is a very steady up/down rhythm with only a slight dim/bright, most likely AC ripple - bad diode in regulator. If it's more like an on/off like flipping a switch, possibly a breaker or a bad ground.

Set a voltmeter on the lowest AC volt setting and check at the battery when it's running. If it shows more than .05 volts AC, replace the regulator. Ideally, it would show zero volts.

 

What was the question again?

 

Need to clarify and qualify...

Most any DVOM these days is good 'nuff for working on these old bikes. If the battery is accepting a charge when running, that is you just started it, meter will read fairly high for AC ripple so the battery needs to be fully charged and reading should be taken after it's run 1/2 - 1 minute or so. The figure I stated is a bit unrealistic for the real world (and these regulators) so let me change my statement - if it reads higher than .2 or .3 volts AC, then the regulator (diodes) probably going out.

But to get an AC ripple from the regulator that's enough to cause lights pulsing, I suspect the reading would be over a volt or more.

 

Dash lights dim and come back like on a short timer, does not have to be running.
​​​​​It has a sound like a bi-metal switch opening and closing.
I'm leaning toward ground or possibly weak breaker?
Checking stator w meter set to AC, checked at batt, after a minute or two running.
Should a good stator show any AC voltage at all on a meter?
Thank you.

On the chocolate/ orange Triumph tank, I had read years back (prob. Classic Bike) the color was so unpopular, about 500 of these bikes in this color were sent back to England.

 

Ah OK, small pic, thought it was black and sunburst...

Yes, stator voltage where the regulator plugs in is strictly AC voltage. There is a good "sticky" thread by Dr Hess at the top of the Evo forum page that explains all that very well. (scroll up)

Clicking, yes it's a breaker kicking out, so you have a short. You'd need to get to the breakers in the fairing to know exactly which one but here's a semi-educated guess;

It's not the main, else everything would die out. Not the ignition since it's running and if the other lights (head tail etc) are working, rule that circuit out. There is a "constant" breaker that on civilian models powers the clock and/or radio memory. It may not be used on the Police model, but it's in there and probably has wires but may not actually power anything. I don't have a diagram for that year.

That basically leaves the accessory breaker. It powers the volt gauge, brake lights, turn signals, neutral, oil lights and bulbs in the speedo/tach cluster. Without knowing whether anything has recently been "disturbed" (bulb change, handlebar controls, fairing removed) that's about all I can help you with, without being there but...

If nothing has been touched, first place I would look is the rear brake light switch. Under the right side threaded into the rear master cylinder. It has 2 terminals - one has 2 wires the other has one wire. Un-plug the one that has a single wire, it's the hot one. I've had brake light switches short out simply from age. Second (easiest place) to look - under the right side cover is the starter relay. All ACC power runs thru it and it opens that circuit when the starter is engaged. Slight but slim chance the diode is shorted in it. Unplug it and see if the breaker is still kicking. That would narrow things down a bit.

 

Hijack: Requesting Trident photo please
TNX

 

I hijack once in a while myself, but I'm still disappointed you changed the signature you had for so long...

One of my pet peeves is a post with countless big photos and then someone "quotes" and having to scroll 7 miles to get to the end so... here's an album I just quickly threw together. All 35mm copied with digital so not great, but best I can do in a rush. I'll add some captions this evening. I'm gone riding today

https://www.hdforums.com/g/album/24224653

 

^ Cool, thanks
You actually own / owned an X75 Hurricane ?
Wowzers !

As far as riding today, I hate you

 

I tried the rear master brake switch and then starter relay disconnects.
Still tripping, breaker sounds like it's in the gauge cluster.