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Replacing the three 1157 bulbs on the tourpack and brake light with LED's help lessen draw, about 2 amps each to .2 amps each.
As said the anti-dive solenoid is on that same circuit, it may not even be engaging with the voltage drop.
I did add a ground wire from the top triple tree to the frame, and made some other ground improvements under the fairing while chasing the voltage drop issue.
Great ideas guys! Ordered some LEDs to replace the bulbs and about to go get some wire and a relay to wire up the ACC circuit. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
Sounds like a ground problem to me. I would start cleaning grounds and connections and using dielectric grease in all the plugs after cleaning...it is 33 years old, and all connections degrade and corrode.
Yep, done that to damn near every connection on the bike at this point unless there's some grounds I'm missing. I've even tried running new grounds from where the batter connects to the frame, to another point on the frame, and to the ground block under the instruments. If I hit various grounds with a multimeter I get 0 ohms.
Ran power to the ACC via a relay using the orange wire off the ignition to power it, and switched to LED bulbs. Now it idles at almost 13 volts and barely moves when I hit the brakes. Got a biketronics kit coming in and have the radio caddy off so haven't been able to test the cruise and stuff yet. I'll update when I do.
Thanks Red. I don't have my Fairing off yet so I want to be prepared-to minimize down time this time of year. :-)
Just to be clear, one wants a good full power source to the positive/copper stud of the Acc breaker?
This can be achieved via a relay using the orange wire as trigger voltage to the relay to supply the current to the the Acc breaker positive/copper stud side?
Did you mount the relay up by the breakers or down close to the battery??
It would be nice if there was a good clean power source up under the fairing to pick up the power from.
I hope my questions are clear enough .....
Thanks, Frank
Originally Posted by Redbeardtheweird
Ran power to the ACC via a relay using the orange wire off the ignition to power it, and switched to LED bulbs. Now it idles at almost 13 volts and barely moves when I hit the brakes. Got a biketronics kit coming in and have the radio caddy off so haven't been able to test the cruise and stuff yet. I'll update when I do.
Thanks Red. I don't have my Fairing off yet so I want to be prepared-to minimize down time this time of year. :-)
Just to be clear, one wants a good full power source to the positive/copper stud of the Acc breaker?
This can be achieved via a relay using the orange wire as trigger voltage to the relay to supply the current to the the Acc breaker positive/copper stud side?
Did you mount the relay up by the breakers or down close to the battery??
It would be nice if there was a good clean power source up under the fairing to pick up the power from.
I hope my questions are clear enough .....
Thanks, Frank
Yeah man I just ran a wire straight from the main breaker where the voltage regulator hooks up with a 30A fuse in it to a relay, triggered the relay with the orange wire there, grounded it on the frame nearby, and ran a power source to the power supply of the acc breaker in place of the tan wire that comes from the relay that's already there. If you need any help feel free to hit me up.
Ok, so I got nothing to do so it sounded fun to attack this in the 95degrees F in the shop.
I can work through the headlight hole :-)
Got 13.5v at both sides of the acc breaker. Horn, signals etc don't work. Put a jumper from Batt to copper stud Acc breaker.
Things work! Guess thats the problem.
Th existing lead at the the copper stud, acc Breaker, seems to be white. Gets hot with switch position On & HL .
I will use this white lead to energize the relay to ground, transmitting full battery voltage from the starter solenoid to the copper stud on the acc Breaker.
Gonna mount the relay to a 1/4 fairing mount bolt close to the relay bank.
[size=13px]Found[/size] the cheesy little connector in the orange wire the Dr [size=13px]mentioned. Opened it and hosed it down with Ign spry, about all you can do.[/size]
I move very slowly and cautiously these days so PLEASE SOMEBODY STOP ME if they see a flaw in my theory!
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