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We’ll on the project bike I picked up, I rebuilt the carb and she starts and runs very nice. Slightly high idle but easy fix. It was flowing pretty good out if overflow so I assume float? Is there another issue w the s and s super e that would cause excessive over flow?
im also going to tackle the nasty oil lines, any suggestions?
how hard is it to purchase new grips and bars (same height as ones I have now) and swap controls over?
also, there is a “back off” brake module. When the bike is on, running or not the rear light constantly blinks as it should for brakes applied, stops, then flashes again. This is without any brakes pressed. When I bypass the module , the light stays on as if brakes were applied. Any idea where to start? Bad ground?
The flooding you describe might be some ( very small) piece of "Crud" preventing the needle from seating, or a mis-adjusted or bad float.
There are some references on this forum for procedures to pre-form oil lines, like the factory original ones. I've never done that, just put oil lines as needed. The pre-formed do look "cleaner" but it's not necessary.
Grips and bars are all over the place...shouldn't be any problem replacing those with whatever you prefer. Get some measurements, pictures etc. before pulling anything apart.
Can't help you with your brake light...Mine is still stock.
I’ve got the new bars, essentially angles instead of smooth bends and black, same size however. I was curious about the controls and how intricate they may be, is the throttle tube used on the new bars from the old ones?
as for the carb, it’s a clean tank, new petcock and screen, new fuel lines, new rebuild kit. When I took the float bowl off it was barely anything in it, but it was clean
When you drop the bowl to check for sediment, clean the float needle and seat. When set properly the float should be parallel with the top edge of the bowl when holding upside down.. make sure you note the jet sizes and write it down.. Always handy to have that info..
There was no brake or turn light module in 1986. Someone added that. You can get a new aftermarket module or just put it back to stock.
yea it’s a “back off” module, I suspected after market, but my issue is when I disconnect it, and wire the original brake wire together, it appears the brake light , when the bike is on or running stays lit in the brake on mode. It’s really bright. When brakes are applied it doesn’t get any brighter.
When you drop the bowl to check for sediment, clean the float needle and seat. When set properly the float should be parallel with the top edge of the bowl when holding upside down.. make sure you note the jet sizes and write it down.. Always handy to have that info..
i assume when the float is parallel with the top edge of the bowl the needle is completely seated, or sat haha
Someone appears to have messed with the wiring then. It should go: Switched +12v (orange) to stoplight switch, then red from stoplight switch through to the connector under the left side panel to the brake light itself, which is grounded. The red wire should have 0 volts on it when the brakes are not on and +12V when on.
The back off module is two wires. The instructions claim to find red wire to brake light n splice red wire from module to the wire coming from bike n the silver module wire to the red spliced brake wire going to light
Well, I dunno what you got, but if you disconnect the module and check the voltage on the red wire from the bike side (switch side), it should be 0 with the brake off an +12V with the brake on. Do you have that?
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86 is running
