Starter and Stalling on 90 XLH
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6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Beaumont, TX
Starter and Stalling on 90 XLH
Hey all,
Just getting back into riding with my son and we bought a 1990 XLH 883 with the big bore conversion kit. Rode it home, no problems, rode one other time no problems. Tonight we decided to go for a ride and it started stalling, felt like it was losing gas. Then when I pulled over the starter would only work about once every two or three minutes. Keeping the RPMs high and finessing the clutch, and a few roll starts in 1st I was able to limp it back home. Then I let it sit in the garage and idle for like 2 minutes with no stall whatsoever. Any help in diagnosing would be much appreciated. I am new to working on stuff like this, but I am thinking it has to be something with the starter since it would not ever try to turn over. There's is also a 3/8 crossover fuel line on the fuel tank where it calls for 1/4, but I am not sure that would cause these types of problems.
Josh
Just getting back into riding with my son and we bought a 1990 XLH 883 with the big bore conversion kit. Rode it home, no problems, rode one other time no problems. Tonight we decided to go for a ride and it started stalling, felt like it was losing gas. Then when I pulled over the starter would only work about once every two or three minutes. Keeping the RPMs high and finessing the clutch, and a few roll starts in 1st I was able to limp it back home. Then I let it sit in the garage and idle for like 2 minutes with no stall whatsoever. Any help in diagnosing would be much appreciated. I am new to working on stuff like this, but I am thinking it has to be something with the starter since it would not ever try to turn over. There's is also a 3/8 crossover fuel line on the fuel tank where it calls for 1/4, but I am not sure that would cause these types of problems.
Josh
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: la la land jerzey
Two things to start with - the gas cap has a vent it could be clogged this would stop the fuel leaving the gas tank - re move the cap when it does it only go local to test
maybe intake seals and carb over haul ids required as a low mileage machine will clogg and act up when riding again
maybe intake seals and carb over haul ids required as a low mileage machine will clogg and act up when riding again
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 9,576
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From: Long Island, New York
Is the battery new? If it came with the bike and of unknown vintage, go get a new one.
Sportsters do not have cross overs, sounds like a custom fat bob style tank, pics might help.
Fresh fuel, and a can of carb cleaner into the carb may help out. Full carb rebuild while checking the intake as John noted might be in your future. But start with the easy stuff.
Sportsters do not have cross overs, sounds like a custom fat bob style tank, pics might help.
Fresh fuel, and a can of carb cleaner into the carb may help out. Full carb rebuild while checking the intake as John noted might be in your future. But start with the easy stuff.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,727
Likes: 3,073
From: Brighton, MI
As above and not sure if your year has a vacuum activated petcock, but if it has a vacuum line coming from carb to the BACK OF THE PETCOCK (and not the fuel line that goes to the side of the carb), I would check for leakage in that vacuum line or the diaphragm of the vacuum activated petcock. Lot's of posts on how to fix/eliminate that issue if it does apply.
Otherwise, as mentioned, time to go thru the fuel system. Sounds like a great father son learning and fixing opportunity. The fuel system is pretty simple and you will get some good help here, so maybe a good "once over" to the fuel system is in order. Clean out fuel tank, clean the screen that is in the tank, along with checking function of the petcock, new fuel lines, remove carb and clean it, inspecting all jets, cleaning all passage ways, checking float height and float needle tip, diaphragm in the carb itself, etc
Otherwise, as mentioned, time to go thru the fuel system. Sounds like a great father son learning and fixing opportunity. The fuel system is pretty simple and you will get some good help here, so maybe a good "once over" to the fuel system is in order. Clean out fuel tank, clean the screen that is in the tank, along with checking function of the petcock, new fuel lines, remove carb and clean it, inspecting all jets, cleaning all passage ways, checking float height and float needle tip, diaphragm in the carb itself, etc
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 10
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From: Beaumont, TX
Thanks guys for the quick replies. Unfortunately I have to work all week and won't be able to test anything until probably Saturday. The fuel system tear down does sound like it would be a fun project for us to do, but I will definitely start with the easier stuff. I wish I had more time during the week, but last time I tried to go for a 30 minute ride it turned into a one hour push; haha.
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: NW AR
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6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 10
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From: Beaumont, TX
I checked the voltage at the battery and it was low. The bike wouldn't turn over at all. I bought a battery charger and have it hooked up to charge overnight; hopefully that solves the issue. I don't really get it though, it had enough charge to get the bike going yesterday, rode it for less than a mile, then stalled out again. Should I be worried about the charging system? And if so, does anyone know of a good resource on testing that? I have a digital copy of the manual that gives some steps to walk through, but Youtube or similar would be helpful. Thanks again for all the replies.
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Joe Kucinski
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Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Iowa
I checked the voltage at the battery and it was low. The bike wouldn't turn over at all. (1.) I bought a battery charger and have it hooked up to charge overnight; hopefully that solves the issue. I don't really get it though, it had enough charge to get the bike going yesterday, rode it for less than a mile, then stalled out again. (2.) Should I be worried about the charging system? And if so, does anyone know of a good resource on testing that? I have a digital copy of the manual that gives some steps to walk through, but Youtube or similar would be helpful. Thanks again for all the replies.
A battery tender will slowly charge the battery until it's fully charged and then just keep it fully charged without damaging it.
(2.) Follow Dr. Hess's advice in post #7 using a volt meter set to measure DC volts. I usually check the battery terminals with the ignition switch off. That should be 12.6 to 12.8 volts. Then turn the ignition switch on and measure across the battery terminals again. It will probably read a little lower, especially if turning on the ignition switch also lights up the headlight. Then start the bike and measure across the battery terminals again with the bike running at 2000 rpm. It should measure 14 volts or higher. All three of my Harleys measure 14.4 volts with the bike running at 2000 rpm or higher. If it does read 14 volts or higher, your charging system is most likely working OK.
YK