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Greaser1340, I love what you've done with your Springer! I found this thread because I am using the same Throttle Addiction Pan/Shovel hardtail kit to chop my FXSTS this fall. I have the equip and know how to perform this task but if you have any tips or points of concern that you ran into while doing yours, please share. Enjoy that chop and ride safe Boss!
Hey man, I forgot all about this thread! Good luck with the build, its pretty straight forward. The TA kit is designed to mate right up to a shovel seat post but I cut the top legs back until they matched the width of the top rails on my softail where they exit the seat plate. Use a trans adaptor plate to ensure you don't cut anything too short.
This is where I've got to on the project so far. Just waiting on new s&s jugs for the top end and i can finish the rest.
I should mention that the biggest issues I had came as a result of using a 40s style FL rear fender. It did NOT want to fit correctly at all and by that I mean the clearances were impossible when trying to get it to sit up against the seat crossbar. I have a friend with a machine shop who did a lot of fab work for me to get it to work. The problem was because I wanted to retain the factory 5-speed box, softail oil tank and the stock electric starter motor. The fender needed to have a section cut out to allow it to fit over around the starter and a mounting plate cut and welded on to it where the saddle clamps hold it against the crossbar. Then we found that it refused to sit straight on the rear frame axle plates so the arms needed to be slightly heated and massaged to work.
Other than that, the hardtail kit itself was pretty simple and other than a caliper mount needing welded on to retain the original disk brake HD caliper, it was just checked in a jig for straightness and then welded up at the joints after I had previously slugged it together. The bottom rails of the TA kit are already step-slugged and dont need cut back, they just slide into the bottom stock rails after you have cut those and just need welded. Measure, check and measure again using a marker on the frame to ensure correct cut.
I was a bit nervous about the drive side potentially not fitting back together correct due to the reduced wheelbase etc but I put the motor and gearbox into the inner primary loosely bolted until everything was straight and then tightened everything back up.
I used a Vulcan Works softail chain conversion kit which needed a few links taken out and I dont think you would get a belt in there unless it was super skinny as the clearance is mega tight if you are going to keep the rear disc and caliper like I did. A floating caliper and a skinny rear fender and you would get it away with it I think.
Everything is much closer together now which is appealling to look at as it looks "factory fit" but the downside is there is very limited clearance when doing any disassembly!
I had planned on powder coating the entire frame but due to a pending house move happening faster than expected I am against the clock to get it running so just sanded and rattlecanned the frame in a few coats of smooth black hammerite to last until next winter when I will strip it down and do it properly.
Last edited by Greaser1340; Feb 12, 2024 at 03:31 AM.
While maybe not as clean, why not take a 1" chrome-moly bar with too Heim ends, and replace the shocks. could even make it adjustable for ride height.
I wanted to lose the weight of the swingarm and turn the bike into a rigid. Save lbs and achieve a classic harley silhouette was the plan. Plus I've already hardtailed it now ha.
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