Hello sorry if I sound ignorant but I am when it comes to electronics I have a 1984 FLTC 1340 EVO that I restored and rebuilt had it for the last eight years now and in the past 3 years I have been through like 3 4 batteries I have replaced the stator/rotor as well as the regulator last year was 22amp bumped it to a 32amp now if I ride the bike just normally 65-75ish she seems fine but some days I tend to push her over a bit 85-100 if I do this to many times the damn battery just dies??? I have did all the checks per manual ground test the entire bike is well grounded with ground strap going from frame to inner primary cleaned paint off ect If I hook a test light on the POS term and run it pretty much all over the bike I get a bright light using volt meter I have the same volts around 12.70-75 pretty much everywhere even at the regulator it also is well grounded with the extra wire to frame. new battery charged I always keep it on a tender even previous ones I ride every weekend my bike does not have the draws like these new bikes when shes off shes off do I really need a tender? no draws I tested that to so here's my question with the new battery its a DEKA at rest it is at 12.75 now for the charging part at idle she is at 12.30ish at 1500 RPM it is at 13.50v 13.60 at 3000RMP it is at 14.09v at 4000 14.13v does not go past so I dont see overcharging? am I golden here? or do I need to see 14.30-14.50? I hear this or that some say 14 is good others say low? a buddy of mine is a certified mechanic he also is STUMPED WTH? cant keep going through batteries tows ect costing me not so much the money its the wife LOL afraid she may burn the thing to the ground any help here would be really appreciated I even purchased a battery tester for batt test,crank,and charging they all PASSED if any of you guys my know maybe I'm not checking something here? how bout the breakers? there are no draws no extra goodies on the bike maybe hooking up an extra ground from fame to engine? not sure that would do any good if any of you have some advice please let me know and yes I even have checked the connection from reg to stator and have the metal bracket that attaches from case to the outside plug that keeps it from vibrating out learned that lesson the hard way


Thanks

 

I just had to replace the battery on my 2015 Dyna Low Rider after 6 months, and I keep it on a tender. They gave me a new one, but it was a pain in the *** to pull it out, go to the store, and then replace the battery. It must have been a factory defect as I keep it on a tender. It was putting out 12.7 volts, but only 266 CCA...

 

Yea it has become a nusience I am just stupmed here mine also last about 6MOS I was using the duracells now the DEKA lasted me 10 MOS they gave me a new one

 

I get about 7 years on my batteries. I have tenders on two bikes. Sometimes one will sit for quite a while because the old lady rides it mostly. Get yourself a tender and make double sure every connection and cable is perfect. I also switched to gold cables and never looked back.

 

always use a tender gold cables? did ALL the test cleaned everything new cables cleaned connections did everything I could possibly do? basically what I need to know is the 14 volts at 2500 and up exceptible charging? or is that low been told low been told told good??? rode it the other day for 60 pules miles wanted to stay close came home checked the battery she said 12.75

 

I replaced all the battery cables on the bike with high quality gold plated ones. And my bikes are always on a tender when parked.
I believe 14 volts is okay output for your bike but some of the experts should start chiming in. As for 12.75 on the battery, I'd say that's good too.

 

I have Never used any Tender...I buy cheap 20-BS Batteries (about $60 apiece) and they last 3 years...ignored!!
If I have verified Charging problems...I first check my cheap *** Batteries..if it won't stay at 12.6+ volts for over a week, on bench...ie No Load whatsoever...it is Bad
If battery stays "up" I double check Charging system.. If I can't find Culprit...it has always been Wiring ..dirty connections...Especially Grounds!!!
Once, not long ago a Bad Regulator was Overcharging my Battery!!! Worse than undercharging certainly..

Edit; I believe that up to 14.5 charging at battery is OK..I can get along much lower (anything over 12.8 or so on my Shovelheads) And anything between is OK with Me...
Remember...Overcharging is the Number One Killer of Lead Acid Batteries...Vibration is Second, on Motorcycles anyway...

 

What kind of battery are you using ? My shovel with the evo era 32 amp charging system you use gets about 2 yrs on a battery don't care the type or brand and I've tried some pricey top shelf units. The 17 Road King I changed out at 5 yrs just because, it was still doing ok I just didn't trust the age with no kicker as a backup.

I'm going out on a limb here but is sounds like you have a parasitic drain going on somewhere..

 

Not happy with my last Deka, only lasted one season.

The battery before that lasted 7 years. Did not do anything different. Both AGM's

 

To answer your charging voltage question; nominal charging voltage of a 12 volt system is 13.8 volts so yes 14 volts is damn near perfect. Now it's basically never going to just stabilize at a perfect 13.8 volts because charging systems are always varying slightly depending on load, rpm, battery state, temperature, etc. hence the reason it's called nominal voltage.

From the information you provided it appears that your charging system is working perfectly, and you've done a pretty good job of covering all the other bases too so the only thing that comes to mind is, have you considered vibration? Lead acid batteries hate vibrations, impacts, etc. and it can shorten their life considerably.